Borna Bosnjak
The Holy Trinity brand expands its entry-level Fiftysix and high-end Metiers d’Art collections for the 2024 Watches and Wonders Shanghai fair.The new, 18k 5N pink gold Fiftysix Self-winding introduces a black dial to the collection, inspired by mid-century classics, as its name suggests.In anticipation of the next year of the lunar calendar, Vacheron Constantin creates tribute pieces for the Year of the Snake, combining miniature painting, engraving, and enamelling.Looking through Vacheron Constantin’s releases over the last few years, you’d be forgiven for thinking that the Fiftysix has not been at the forefront of the brand’s efforts. The entry-level collection was introduced in hopes of bringing a younger audience to the brand, though it currently only counts a few references actually priced at the entry-level – for Vacheron Constantin, that is. Albeit cased in precious metal, the new black-dialled Fiftysix stands out as an ideal luxury daily wearer, with a finely finished black dial and movement decorated to Vacheron Constantin’s high standards. If this is a sign that more Fiftysix is on the way, I’m all for it.Though we’re only halfway through the current lunar year, Vacheron Constantin is already looking ahead to the next with its second big announcement for Watches and Wonders Shanghai this year. The Year of the Snake is set to begin on January 29th, 2025, but the release of the long-windedly named Metiers d’Art Legend of the Chinese Zodiac Year of the Snake is well-timed considering it’s launching in the Chinese market.Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Self-windingLet’s start with the more general-appeal, non-limited release. While the Fiftysix is inspired by the general design codes of the 1950s, the name is actually a specific reference to a specific reference: the 6073, which was launched in 1956 and was one of the brand’s first-ever automatic watches. The shape of the 6073’s unique lugs has been toned down somewhat and reinterpreted for the new model, it still references the brand’s Maltese cross logo. Crafted from 18k 5N pink gold, the Fiftysix comes in at 40mm in diameter and 9.6mm in height, which are ideal daily proportions – though the water resistance only sits at 30 metres.The Fiftysix’s sector dial is not just a straight copy from its muse either, elevating the everyday wear proposition with improved contrast for better legibility, as well as a small amount of luminescent paint on the indices. The Arabic numeral typeface is a great mix of old and new, and I especially like the shape of the “8” numeral. As far as the movement goes, the 1326 is a ValFleurier-made calibre that’s then decorated by Vacheron Constantin, based on the Cartier 1904 architecture. While it’s not one of the brand’s Geneva Hallmark movements, it’s a solid performer and one of the main reasons for the more approachable pricing of the Fiftysix. It features a 48-hour power reserve and beats at 4Hz.BrandVacheron ConstantinModelFiftysix Self-windingReference4600E/000R-H101Case Dimensions40mm (D) x 9.6mm (T)Case Material18k 5N pink goldWater Resistance30 metresCrystal(s)Sapphire front and backDialBlack opalineStrap and braceletAnthracite nubuck calfskin, 18k 5N pink gold pin buckleMovement1326, Cartier 1904 base, made by ValFleurier, automaticPower Reserve48 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, seconds, dateAvailabilityNowPriceTBCVacheron Constantin Metiers d’Art Legend of the Chinese Zodiac Year of the SnakeVacheron Constantin, among other things, prides itself on establishing China as a market all the way back in the 1800s, producing special pieces for the dignitaries of the court. Following up on the Year of the Rabbit and Year of the Dragon Metiers d’Art models, VC is introducing a pair of watches tributing the Year of the Snake. The format of the release is largely similar to its predecessors, with the four apertures of the dial showing hours, minutes, days, and dates, combined with a hand-engraved animal on the dial in either gold or platinum cases. The snake in question is a cobra, pictured with its hood open, in a position that’s ready to strike. The cobra and the rock upon which it sits are made of either white or pink gold, hand-engraved by Vacheron Constantin’s artisans, before being hand-painted to accentuate the engraving’s texture.The dial backdrop is grand feu enamel, with the miniature details of the leaves naturally painted by hand and integrating the upper two apertures. To match the golden or silver tones of the dial, Vacheron Constantin matches them with either an 18k 5N pink gold or 950 platinum case, measuring 40mm x 12.72mm. While this isn’t a huge watch by any stretch, these are also not overly demure dimensions either that you may expect for this style of watch. The cases are accompanied by tonal alligator leather straps, completed by case-matching, Maltese cross-shaped folding clasps.Finally, the movement. The in-house, 2460 G4 is not the primary focus of this release, but Vacheron Constantin wouldn’t be the brand that it is without paying plenty of attention to the calibre, too. The four discs are coloured to match the surrounding areas of the dial, while the calibre itself is decorated to the Geneva Hallmark standard. Spec-wise, the 2460 G4 sports a full-size, engraved gold rotor topping up the 40-hour power reserve, beating at 4Hz.BrandVacheron ConstantinModelMetiers d'Art The legend of the Chinese zodiac Year of the SnakeReference86073/000R-H03486073/000P-H033Case Dimensions40mm (D) x 12.72mm (T)Case Material18k 5N pink gold950 platinumWater Resistance30 metresCrystal(s)Sapphire front and backDial18k 4N gold, miniature painting, grand feu enamel, hand-engravingStrap and braceletAlligator leather, case-matching folding claspMovement2460 G4, in-house, automatic, Poin?on de GenevePower Reserve40 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, day, dateAvailability25 pieces per referencePriceTBC
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