Borna Bosnjak
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The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface looks to the brand’s history for inspirationCombining a retrograde date and tourbillon, it’s the next in line of complicated Traditionnelle references, the 2162 R31 calibre awarded a Geneva SealThe Openface sapphire dial’s gold surfaces are guilloched by handDespite what the name suggests, Vacheron Constantin’s Traditionnelle collection is only traditional in its inspiration, rather than execution. The latest member of the family, the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface, continues a line of avant-garde designs backed by classical complications. One only needs to take a brief look at the GPHG-winning Twin Beat or the Complete Calendar Openface, and the lineage is clear.While there is no traditional dial per se, Vacheron Constantin does not disappoint in the execution of their Openface. There plenty of depth thanks to the complications, the NAC-treated components of the movement standing out against the hand-guilloched components. Along with the Openface, this Traditionnelle incorporates another Vacheron signature – their retrograde date display. Occupying the top portion of the dial, the numerals are pointed out by a blackened 18k gold hand, a similar execution to the Overseas Retrograde Date released alongside the Traditionnelle. The lower portion is reserved for the large tourbillon that doubles as a seconds hand, with a seconds track suspended above the polished bridge holding the Maltese cross-shaped tourbillon cage.Warming up the cold grey tones of the dial is the 18k pink gold case. Simple in its design, it takes cues from mid-century design, like the stepped bezel and monolithic lugs but upping the sizing to a decidedly modern 41mm. Despite its complications, its only 11.07mm in height, making for a slim on-wrist experience. For anything sportier than your office environment may need, however, I’d probably look to the Overseas line, as the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface only has 30 metres of water resistance, despite a screw-down caseback.The 2162 R31 calibre that powers the Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface is a true work of art. The NAC-treated surfaces with vertical Geneva stripes are interrupted by anglage and mirror polishing, while the large aperture that lets in light through the tourbillon cage showcases the slow 18,000 vph beat rate. The calibre is impressively thin as well, measuring in at 6.25mm, certainly in part thanks to the solid gold peripheral rotor that tops up the 72-hour power reserve.Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface pricing and availability:The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface is a boutique exclusive. Price: 200,000BrandVacheron ConstantinModelTraditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date OpenfaceReference Number6010T/000R-B638Case Dimensions41mm (D) x 11.07mm (T)Case Material18k 5N pink goldWater Resistance3 barDialOpenface, four-part assembly, 18k gold with guilloche main, 18k gold markers, hands and date handCrystal(s)Sapphire front and backStrapGrey alligator with alligator inner shell, hand-stitched with 18k 5N pink gold claspMovement2162 R31, in-house calibre, automatic, 2.5Hz beat rate, Geneva HallmarkPower Reserve72 hoursFunctionsTourbillon, hours, minutes, retrograde dateAvailabilityBoutique exclusivePrice200,000
27.03.23