Borna Bosnjak
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The biggest piece of the VC 270th puzzle is unveiled as the new Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar.Vacheron Constantin’s boffins have built a QP module into the Calibre 2160, adding less than a millimetre in height.This special, platinum-cased piece is limited to 127 examples, with pricing expectedly on request.If the 222 was Vacheron Constantin’s sensible gift to themselves for their 270th, like your parents getting you a pair of really good, no-nonsense shoes, then the new Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is the equivalent of a three-day bender people talk about for years to come. Though it’s by no means the most complicated (wrist)watch Vacheron Constantin has ever made, the Traditionnelle TPC (for sake of brevity) is more than worthy of its Holy Trinity brand membership. It’s cased in 42mm of 950 platinum, with a thin, flying tourbillon base calibre that’s been modified to house a perpetual calendar function while retaining an overall thickness of just 11.1mm. Let’s get into it.Named the Calibre 2162 QP/270, Vacheron Constantin clearly explains how this new movement came about. By taking the slow-beating Calibre 2160 that powers many of its tourbillon watches, VC’s watchmakers are using it as the base for the perpetual calendar works that you can see neatly stacked on the reverse of the baseplate, just beneath the dial. Without looking too carefully, the caseback side actually looks remarkably similar to the usual 2160, with the two sharing the 2.5Hz beat rate. With the added complication, however the Traditionnelle TPC does lose 8 hours of power reserve, though 72 hours total is certainly nothing to scoff at.And if we’re talking impressive, I think I don’t need to tell you that this is a beautiful movement. Whether you can see them or not, Vacheron Constantin does a commendable job finishing all of its components, and I love that they’re using a peripheral rotor to fully show off the movement. As is often the case with the brand’s tourbillons, the rotating cage is the main attraction, with the finishing highlight being the hand-polished bridge holding the Maltese cross-shaped carriage from the dial-side.Though the finishing of the perpetual calendar is covered by the dial, Vacheron made sure you’ve got something to look at there, too. The engravings here are consistent with the special motif created for the brand’s 270th anniversary, and it might be my favourite execution across the range. With the time-only pieces, the pattern is quite obvious and could detract from the overall minimalist of the design however well-executed. With the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, the point is to show off the brand’s savoir faire, so I can’t be mad about a little drama.Nestling in to the left of the tourbillon aperture is a Maltese cross, from which emanate hand-cut guilloche grooves, only interrupted by the blue-printed sub-dials. This entire assembly is solid gold, as are the markers and hands.On the wrist, the 42mm diameter may be a little imposing, though the height stays a slim 11.1mm. Executed in a full polish, it’s as one would expect from a high-complication watch derived from a dressy model line, and the symmetry and proportions are absolutely on point. Combine all the blue accents with the dark blue of the alligator leather strap, and you’ve got a piece worthy of any birthday celebration.Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 270th pricing and availabilityThe Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is a limited edition of 127 pieces. Price: on requestBrandVacheron ConstantinModelTraditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual CalendarReference6300/000P-H056Case Dimensions42mm (D) x 11.1mm (T)Case material950 platinumWater Resistance30 metresCrystal(s)Sapphire front and backDial18k gold hand guilloche with matching markers and handsBracelet and strapAlligator leather, 950 platinum buckleMovement2162 QP/270, in-house, automaticPower Reserve72 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, small seconds, perpetual calendar, tourbillonAvailabilityLimited to 127 piecesPriceOn request
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