Vacheron Constantin continues to celebrate the 20th anniversary of its Patrimony with a new limited edition made in collaboration with French designer Ora ?to.The watch blends VC design from the ’50s, and ?to’s signature “simplexity” to create a minimalist aesthetic that is subtly complex.The Patrimony Self-winding Ora ?to is limited to 100 pieces, and priced at US$35,300.?Ora ?toWe may be in the era of sports watch dominance, but back in the ’50s, sophisticated watches were the champions. Little did watchmakers in the ’50s know, the sports watches that were beginning to emerge would, to an extent, take over. But, the grip sports watches have at present may be weakening, at a time where consumers have hit peak frustration with ambiguous waitlists and where aesthetics are becoming more of a purchase driver. There has been a resurgence of interest in ultra-thin, dressier 1970s design – with Richemont’s range of watch brands leading the charge. So, it’s timely that for the 20th anniversary of the Patrimony, Vacheron Constantin has enlisted French designer Ora ?to to take a ’50s design and give it a ’70s twist.Vacheron Constantin ref. 6179 (1957)So, how, or why, are we jumping from the 1950s to 2004, and then to the present, before making a jump back to the ’70s? Well, the Patrimony, born in 2004, takes inspiration from Vacheron Constantin’s ultra-thin watches of the 1950s, namely clean and thin references such as the 6187 and 6179. I don’t say this as a bad thing, but watches like the 6187 and 6179 were plain designs that, while guaranteeing timeless appeal, are a bit… Well, plain. These days, however, a bolder splash of colour or texture goes a long way in generating buzz around a watch. And this is where Ora ?to enters the chat.Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Ora ?to Limited Edition ref. 85180/000J-H069.?to is known for his signature philosophy of “simplexity”. Vacheron Constantin explains it as “a neologism combining two seemingly contradictory notions: simplicity and complexity. Simplexity is the art of proposing a simple response to a complex problem, of giving a simple appearance to an object involving invisible complexity. From architecture to furniture, fragrances, phones and public transport, Ora ?to is known for perpetual reinvention and for focusing resolutely on essentials – perfectly illustrated in the Patrimony Self-winding watch.”As I noted once in my hands-on review of a Patrimony spotted on Jeremy Allen White’s wrist during award show season, a parallel can be drawn between the Patrimony and White’s high-end white tees worn in The Bear. Both items are seemingly simple, yet deceptively complex to craft, making the watch a perfect canvas for ?to to apply his simplexity sense of design.“But Zach… isn’t it just a gold-tone dial with concentric circles?”, I hear you ask. Well… Yes. That is an entirely accurate statement. However, the seemingly commonplace resulting design has the twist of being inspired by a particular astronomical phenomenon. ?to explains: “This circular movement of light refers to the Baily Pearls, a spectacular phenomenon that accompanies an eclipse of the Sun by the Moon.”Playing with light and shadow is a tried-and-true hallmark of watch design, but the subtle camber of the dial makes the concentric texture, which more often than not gives a sort of vinyl aesthetic, look more like an infinite ripple. With a singular, wider ring giving the Patrimony almost a sector dial, the others thin out and dissipate as they approach the outermost perimeter of the dial.Thin hands and a mixture of pearl-shaped and elongated indices are a signature of any Patrimony, but the gold-on-gold dial, blended with a dial-matching yellow gold case (40mm x 8.55mm x 47mm) is where the groovy ’70s vibes come into play. Vacheron Constantin and ?to have also made a concerted effort to have the date window perfectly colour-match the dial, with its numerals in a burgundy that matches the structured calfskin strap that harkens to ?to’s architectural expertise. Exhibited inside, you have the brand’s in-house, automatic, and Geneva-Sealed calibre 2450 Q6 with 40 hours of power reserve.My only complaint about the Patrimony Ora ?to, beyond my typical “it’s a great watch, but make it 36mm” sentiment, is that Vacheron Constantin should make designs like this one available in regular production. Yes, being a limited edition of 100 pieces is more in line with the brand’s “one of not many” motto, but this bolder “simplexity” twist on the Patrimony (a collection often overshadowed by the Overseas), is exactly how Vacheron can better appeal to the modern market and what is on-trend, while still being faithful to its rich heritage.Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-winding Ora ?to pricing and availabilityThe Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-winding Ora ?to ref. 85180/000J-H069 is available now as a limited edition of 100 pieces. Price: US$35,300BrandVacheron ConstantinModelPatrimony Self-winding Ora ?toReference85180/000J-H069Case Dimensions40mm (D) x 8.55mm (T) x 47mm (LTL)Case Material18k yellow goldWater Resistance30 metresCrystal(s)Sapphire crystal front and backDialGold-toned, circular decorStrapBurgundy calfskin leather, 18k 3N yellow gold pin buckleMovement2450 Q6, in-house, automatic, Poin?on de GenevePower Reserve40 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, seconds, dateAvailabilityLimited to 100 piecesPriceUS$35,300
09.10.24