Jamie Weiss
Watchmaking is a discipline defined by complicated mathematics, but some horological equations are easier to follow than others. The Overseas is Vacheron Constantin's most well-known and popular watch model. Retrograde displays are one of Vacheron Constantin's signature complications. So, what happens when you combine the two?You get this: the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date, the first retrograde display in a sports watch for this storied Swiss brand, and a watch that places two quite old-school complications within a thoroughly sporty and modern timepiece.The historyA Vacheron Constantin Bras en l’Air ‘Guru’ from the 1930s. Image courtesy of AntiquorumBefore we jump into discussing the Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date in earnest, it’s worth discussing Vacheron Constantin’s history of retrograde displays, of which retrograde dates are the most common variant. First emerging in the 18th century and utilised by watchmakers like the legendary Abraham-Louis Breguet, it wasn’t until the 1930s that Vacheron Constantin produced their first retrograde watch: a double retrograde time display pocket watch called the Bras en l’Air.The Vacheron Constantin ref. 3620, better known as the ‘Don Pancho’. Image courtesy of PhillipsTheir archetypal retrograde date watch, however, was a piece unique made in 1935, nicknamed the ‘Don Pancho’ after its commissioner. The Don Pancho remains one of the most historically significant Vacheron Constantin watches ever made, combining a tonneau case, minute repeater, day of the week counter, and yes, a 31-day retrograde calendar display. It is one of the first watches to ever utilise a retrograde date mechanism – however, it wasn’t until 60 years later in the 1990s that VC would really start to embrace retrograde displays with watches like the Saltarello, with VC establishing the retrograde date as a signature of theirs.The dialThat brings us to the Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date, which continues VC’s reputation for making refined retrograde date watches. To facilitate its two namesake complications, the Overseas' dial has been elegantly divided into two hemispheres: an upper hemisphere with the retrograde date and a lower hemisphere housing a moonphase aperture.Like most Vacheron Constantins with retrograde date displays (following the format established by the Don Pancho), the Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date mounts the date hand on the same centre pinion as the hour and minute hands. The date hand is dark blue with a light blue lumed tip, making it a bit stealthy but still easy to distinguish. The moonphase disc itself is highly modern, featuring polished rhodium moons and minimalist depictions of constellations set on a dark blue background.The blue dial of the Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date is also a cut above the blue dials found on other Overseas models, as it features a surprisingly subaqueous layer of semi-translucent lacquer applied on top of a galvanic sunburst finish. It's almost enamel-like, with the glossiness of the lacquer particularly apparent around the moonphase aperture. I remember seeing this watch for the first time at Watches & Wonders and really questioning it – “is this enamel or lacquer?” – it’s so deep and juicy, even if it’s actually not that thick. It's a distinctly luxurious touch, fitting for this elevated take on the Overseas.The caseUnlike most models in the Overseas collection, which can be had in a variety of case metals and dial colours, the Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date is, at least currently, available in only one spec: in a 41mm stainless steel case with a blue dial, which is the Phase 3 Overseas' definitive colour and metal combination. At 10.48 mm, it’s also reasonably svelte, impressive considering how complicated its movement is.You'd think that, given the genteel nature of its complications, VC might have been tempted to imagine the Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date in a precious metal like gold. However, I really like the contrast between the sportiness of that steel and blue with the vintage vibes of its retrograde date and moon phase.The movementThe Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date is powered by the brand’s in-house calibre 2460 R31L/2, borrowed from the Patrimony line. Its high-precision moonphase only requires a single correction every 122 years, it features a soft iron inner shield to protect against magnetism, and the beautifully decorated movement boasts Poin?on de Geneve certification. However, it only features 50 metres of water resistance and a 40-hour power reserve: compare that to the calibre 5100 that powers the standard Overseas three-hander, which features 150 metres of water resistance and a 60-hour power reserve.But let's be real, the Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date isn't designed to be an out-and-out sports watch anyway. That said, I'd dare say it's more robust than the majority of watches that feature either or both of its two namesake complications, and it's still unmistakably a sports watch.The braceletBefitting its sporty meets sophisticated character, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date comes with three different integrated strap options: an integrated steel bracelet with Maltese cross-shaped links and a butterfly clasp, as well as a blue rubber strap and a blue leather strap. It's easy to swap out each option thanks to the Overseas' quick-change strap system, which 8 years on, still stands out as one of the best in the business.The verdictUnlike their rival Holy Trinity brands, Vacheron Constantin has largely resisted the urge to imagine their integrated sports watch, the Overseas, in a million and one different complications. However, I’m glad they chose to push the boat out a little bit with the Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date. These two complications are almost synonymous with Vacheron Constantin – especially the retrograde date – and they’ve integrated them into the Overseas in an exceptionally dignified way. As I mentioned earlier, I dig the juxtaposition between sportiness and classicism this watch has; it’s utterly Vacheron and very compelling.Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date pricing & availabilityThe Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date is available now, exclusively from Vacheron Constantin boutiques. Price: A$73,500BrandVacheron ConstantinModelOverseas Moon Phase Retrograde DateReference Number4000V/210A-B911Case Dimensions41mm (D) x 10.48 mm (T)Case MaterialStainless steelWater Resistance50 metresCrystal(s)Sapphire front and backDialBlue lacquered sunburstLug WidthIntegratedBraceletMaltese cross bracelet, blue rubber strap, blue leather strapMovementCalibre 2460 R31L/2, in-house, automatic, Poin?on de GenevePower Reserve40 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, retrograde date, moonphaseAvailabilityVacheron Constantin boutique exclusivePriceA$73,500
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