Borna Bosnjak
“WE ARE BACK”, reads a huge banner on TAG Heuer’s website, proudly announcing the brand’s return as the title sponsors of Formula 1 and cementing its status as the motorsport watch brand. While this is a huge change, premeditated by LVMH taking over from Rolex in October 2024, one thing that watch fans, myself included, found sorely missing were some watches to commemorate the occasion. With LVMH Watch Week 2025 kicking off, TAG Heuer lifted the covers from the watch that we’re sure to see plastered all over F1 advertising during this season – the all-new Formula 1 Chronograph. The collection was largely centered around quartz until now, but with the previous generation bowing out with a Red Bull collaboration, it’s time for five new automatic references to enter the fray, one of which we will undoubtedly be seeing on the wrist of the current world champion.The dialsWith the four regular-production models, the dial brief was seemingly quite simple. Take the typeface you might see on the speedometer of a sports car – in fact, just take the whole instrument cluster – and stick it onto the dial. The colour-coded hands represent the chronograph functions, with the running seconds creeping in at 9 o’clock, balanced out by the 3 o’clock branding and date window. Against a black backdrop, you’ll have a choice of red, blue, or electric yellow. So if you’re a fan of Ferrari, Williams, Alpine, or even Aston Martin, you’ll have a Formula 1 watch to go with your team colours. Other than the colour highlights, the dials are quite simple, with only the raised sub-dial borders giving them depth, though I have to say I am a fan of having “SPEED” on the bezel instead of “TACHYMETER”. Simple, but effective.Though the blue?could?work if you’re a Super Max Super Fan?, TAG Heuer is giving you a much easier option with the Oracle Red Bull Racing edition. Of course, this goes along with the brand’s sponsorship of the Austrian racing outfit, as this is not a partnership we’re likely to see ending any time soon, despite TAG Heuer now sponsoring the whole show, too. And there’s a lot more going on with the dial. The sub-dials are now set on a chequered blue dial, with a bright yellow central seconds reminiscent of the nose cone of all Red Bull liveries and a forged carbon bezel instead of an aluminium one.Though the look is a lot busier, I think TAG Heuer just managed to pull it off cohesively. The combination of colours really does remind me of the current generation of F1 cars, with lots of exposed carbon helping them make the minimum weight requirement in lieu of “heavy” paint. The one thing I would change is the crowded text around the date window. I know TAG Heuer has to put its logo and the model name somewhere, but I wonder whether that was the best placement for it all.The caseIt’s not only the dials that are new for the updated Formula 1. In the current catalogue, all Formula 1 references (automatic or otherwise) have steel cases, while the 2025 automatic models introduce grade 2 titanium into the mix, with the option of DLC coating should you so wish. This is a welcome change, and an important one to justify the increase in price (more on which shortly). With the new case material also comes a new design, with an integrated bracelet and large, rectangular pushers that integrate into the overall case design well, pushing the Formula 1 collection into a more modern direction. Depending on the colourway, you’ll find its highlighting colours integrated into the case design too, joining the aluminium bezels and titanium cases, as well as at the end of the black crown. Though these aren’t divers, the screw-down crown and 200 metres of water resistance will be perfectly suited for a dip – a celebratory dive into the Monaco pool, say?Though the cases are more angular and lighter thanks to the titanium construction, what hasn’t changed is that the Formula 1 is a big watch. At 44mm in diameter and 14.1mm thick, you’re quite literally getting a lot of watch here, and though the lug-to-lug of 47.3mm is relatively compact, the integrated rubber strap negates that compact dimension. As a result, I’d recommend the new Formula 1 for wrists over 17cm in diameter, or to those who like an oversized fit.The strapTAG Heuer has gotten plenty of praise for its overall improvement (from yours truly, included), and this is something the brand is clearly now applying to more than just cases and movements. The new Formula 1 has an excellent rubber strap, riding the line between comfort and structure well. It’s also where you’ll find more coloured highlights, this time running down the side of the strap and matching the dial, ending in a steel pin buckle that matches the case finish.If you’re hoping to experiment with different straps, you might actually get away with it despite the new Formula 1 technically being an integrated design. The straps flare out as they reach the lugs, but they do have standard spring bars (unfortunately not quick-release), albeit stuffed in a narrow lug width, so I’m unsure how the watch would pair with aftermarket straps.The movementQuartz movements have dominated the Formula 1 collection in the past, with only a few automatic models present in the line-up. The new Formula 1 Chronograph continues to use the Calibre 16 that powered its predecessors, which is essentially the ubiquitous ETA/Valjoux 7750. It’s a proven, automatic chronograph calibre, beating at 4Hz, and with a power reserve of up to 42 hours. For this new release, TAG Heuer chose to use a solid caseback with a chequered flag motif, a decision that I’m fully supportive of in this case.The verdictThe conclusion here is pretty simple. With the new title sponsorship, TAG Heuer is rightfully tidying up the Formula 1 collection that’s grown to become massive. With the rest of the brand moving upmarket, it was time for its most affordable collection to follow suit, and it does, with nearly a US$1,000 increase over prior auto chrono variants. The positives are that the case design and material are much-improved when compared to those, and in my opinion, now have a much less anonymous design that can be recognised as a Formula 1, rather than just some sporty chronograph. Naturally, using TAG Heuer’s in-house TH20 movement would be preferable, but that would mean the Formula 1 would compete with the Carrera, which I’m guessing will not be happening any time soon. But at around US$1,000 more, the Glassbox shows how good of a value it is in comparison.TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph pricing and availabilityThe TAG Heuer Formula 1 is being presented at LVMH Watch Week 2025, with availability for certain models varying during the year. The Formula 1 references in red, red with DLC titanium, and blue will be available in March, the Red Bull team edition drops a month later in April, while the reference lime-tinged reference is last, set to become available in June. Price: CHF 4,600 (~US$5,100, titanium) CHF 4,800 (~US$5,300, DLC titanium), CHF 5,300 (~US$5,800, Oracle Red Bull Racing)BrandTAG HeuerModelFormula 1 ChronographFormula 1 Chronograph x Oracle Red Bull RacingReferenceCBZ2082.FT8096CBZ2085.FT8093CBZ2084.FT8097CBZ2086.FT8098CBZ2080.FT8091Case Dimensions44mm (D) x 14.1mm (T) x 47.3mm (LTL)Case materialGrade 2 titaniumGrade 2 titanium with DLC coatingGrade 2 titanium, forged carbon (Red Bull)Water Resistance200 metresCrystal(s)Sapphire front and backDialBlack opaline, coloured highlights (Formula 1)Blue opaline, chequered pattern (Red Bull)Lug WidthIntegratedStrapColour-matching rubber strap, steel pin buckleMovementCaliber 16, ETA 7750 base, automaticPower Reserve42 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronographAvailabilityMarch (CBZ2082.FT8096, CBZ2085.FT8093, and CBZ2084.FT8097)April (CBZ2080.FT8091)June (CBZ2086.FT8098)PriceCHF 4,600 (titanium)CHF 4,800 (DLC titanium)CHF 5,300 (Oracle Red Bull Racing)
23.01.25