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15 Best Watches of 2017 According to the GPHG


Felix Scholz
A few hours ago, watchmaking's night of nights the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve wrapped up (though we suspect the afterparties may still be in full swing), and 15 prizes, along with a special jury prize, were awarded by the jury. The GPHG awards are often hotly debated, but do, nonetheless, provide an interesting barometer of where the watch industry is at. This year's winners are an interesting mix of bigger brands and niche players, haute horology and a more mass approach. I also think it's great to see a focus on commercially minded innovation, which is perhaps indicative of where the industry's mind is at right now. But that's enough from me. Here are the winners.MEN'S WATCH PRIZEBulgariOcto Finissimo AutomaticThis hotly tipped favourite is a worthy winner. Read our review here.AIGUILLE D'OR GRAND PRIXChopardL.U.C. Full StrikeChopard has quietly been making excellent watches for years. It just paid off, big time.LADIES' WATCH PRIZEChanelPremiere Camelia SkeletonChanel's second manufacture movement is an attractive blend of brand motif and engineering prowess.LADIES' HIGH-MECH WATCH PRIZEVan Cleef & ArpelsLady Arpels Papillon AutomateWhimsical. Ingenious. Beautiful. When it comes to women's high mechanicals, VC&A are the ones to beat.CHRONOGRAPH WATCH PRIZEParmigiani FleurierTonda Chronor AnniversaireParmigiani Fleurier, always a favourite with the experts, had an excellent year with two wins in complicated categories.TOURBILLON AND ESCAPEMENT WATCH PRIZEBulgariOcto Finissimo Tourbillon SkeletonAnother thin win for Bulgari, rewarding the hard work and non-traditional design approach of their watch design team.CALENDAR WATCH PRIZEGreubel ForseyQP equationFew brands can make a watch like Greubel Forsey, as this stunner of a perpetual calendar (with bonus EOT) proves.TRAVEL TIME WATCH PRIZEParmigiani FleurierToric Hemispheres RetrogradeParmigiani's second win is for this two-timing take on their original Tonda.MECHANICAL EXCEPTION WATCH PRIZEVacheron ConstantinLes Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600Guaranteed to give you a headache (unless you're an astrophysicist), this incredibly complex VC is truly outstanding.PETITE AIGUILLE PRIZETudorBlack Bay ChronoProving that in-house nous and a smart price?is a winning combo. Find out more about the BB Chrono here.SPORTS WATCH PRIZEUlysse NardinMarine RegattaA smart (and stylish) take on a niche complication. Read our review of one of SIHH's best here.JEWELLERY WATCH PRIZEChopardLotus Blanc WatchA second, high jewellery win for Chopard proves that they're masters of both brains and beauty.ARTISTIC CRAFTS WATCH PRIZEVoutilainenAki-No-KureJust look at it. Seriously. How could it not win?REVIVAL WATCH PRIZELonginesThe Longines Avigation BigEyeLongines prove (again) that they're a dab hand at heritage. Read our review here.INNOVATION PRIZEZenithDefy LabWith a completely new escapement that could revolutionise the watch industry, Zenith's Defy Lab is true innovation.SPECIAL JURY PRIZESuzanne Rohr and Anita PorchetSpecialist artisans like enamellers Suzanne Rohr and Anita Porchet are the hidden lifeblood of high horology. Great to see them honoured.
09.11.17
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