Buffy Acacia
Contemporary watchmaking is overrun with themes and subgenres. What if you want to wear a chronograph that doesn't make you look like a 1940s fighter pilot, an astronaut, or a 1960s rally driver? Finding something that helps feed your personal style rather than forces a style upon you is tricky, especially if you don't want to settle for minimalism. Well, the Maurice Lacroix Aikon Quartz Chronograph has just undergone a facelift to become its best iteration yet.The caseAlthough the Maurice Lacroix Aikon collection is based on the brand's Calypso model from the 90s, it's by no means a retro reissue. Everything has been reworked for the 21st century, projecting strength and sportiness. The six pairs of raised claws of the round bezel give the watch an industrial, blocky feeling without needing to resort to a geometric bezel shape. That way, it can rock an integrated bracelet and avoid unnecessary comparisons to watches like the Royal Oak or Nautilus. The polishing of those claws gives them some extra punch above the brushed surfaces, and also elevates the case into a slightly dressy area.Previous iterations of the Aikon Quartz Chronograph were pretty hefty at 44mm in diameter, and that could only be a stylistic decision when using a quartz movement. The new models have been reduced to 42mm for a presence that's still “jumbo” by current standards, but manageable for the average wrist. It's only 11mm thick, so it has a slender elegance no matter the diameter. It's as practical as you'd hope from a sports watch, with 100 metres of water resistance for swimming suitability, a screw-down crown to keep that secure, and a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coatings.The dialQuartz-powered chronographs can sometimes fall for the trap of including too many irrelevant complications, but the Aikon Quartz Chronograph resists that urge well. Granted, the 1/10th second counter at 12 o'clock may not be all that useful for many people, but at least it's a fun bit of eye candy when the chronograph is running, and it's not distracting when it's not in use. A 30-minute counter sits tucked away at 9 o'clock, perfect for timing everyday tasks and necessities like parking metres, cooking, or exercise, and the running seconds hand is placed at 6 o'clock. There's also a date complication cut into that subdial, which keeps a bit more symmetrical balance than having it replace the hour marker at 3 o'clock.The Maurice Lacroix logo and printed text keeps things simple, allowing some room to breathe for the dial on the right hand side. The fine sunburst brushing moves dynamically in the light, creating a subtle play of colour no matter your dial choice. There are silky black, blue, or silver with blue subdials options, so you can coordinate it with your usual outfit choices, although I'm sure there will be more colourful and experimental releases in the near future. Some may find the amount of luminous paint lacking, with only minimal lines in the hands and small dots on the edges of the hour markers to help you out in the dark.The braceletWatchmaking is at a point where integrated bracelets are probably far more prolific now than their first time trending in the 70s, and that can only be a good thing. With modern construction quality and fitment, they're more likely to age better over the decades too. The five-link bracelet of the Aikon Quartz Chrono seamlessly follows the contour of the lugs, tapering down in both width and thickness before meeting at the butterfly clasp. There are quick-release spring bars for Maurice Lacroix's Easy Strap Exchange System, and many extra straps to choose from including leather options and many colours of rubber.The movementMaurice Lacroix doesn't disclose who supplies its quartz movements, but based on the layout, it looks to be something like a Ronda 3540.D. It's a standard quartz chronograph in that it has a 1Hz tick, unlike mechaquartz movements that have been popular with many microbrands. That said, the Seiko mechaquartz movements have a 24-hour sub-dial that irks many collectors. This calibre instead uses a 1/10th second counter for its third subdial that whizzes by, pumping a bit of adrenaline whenever you hit the chronograph pusher. I can't think of many instances when you would need to time tenths, let alone have a quick enough reaction time to accurately measure them, but it’s a cool feature nonetheless.The verdictIt can sometimes seem like the art of the “nice watch” has been lost in favour of fervent vintage worship and adherence to trends. If you just want a nice watch for daily wear and you value the functionality of a chronograph, the Maurice Lacroix Aikon Quartz Chronograph is a great choice for its distinctive case shape and attractive dial. It's definitely not the cheapest option, but using a quartz movement, you know that all of the money you spend is going into the build quality and longevity.Maurice Lacroix Aikon Quartz Chronograph price and availabilityThe Maurice Lacroix Aikon Quartz Chronograph is available now. Price: US$1,400BrandMaurice LacroixModelAikon Quartz ChronographCase Dimensions42mm (D) x 11mm (T)Case MaterialStainless steelWater Resistance100 metres with screw-down crownCrystal(s)Sapphire with anti-reflective coatingDialBlack, blue, or silverBracelet and strapStainless steel bracelet with quick release, folding claspMovementSwiss quartzPower ReserveBattery lifeFunctionsHours, minutes, small seconds, date, 1/10th second chronographAvailabilityAvailable nowPriceUS$1,400
23.12.24