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15 Winning Watches of the 2016 GPHG


Felix Scholz
In the early hours of the Australian morning, the watch industry was celebrating its night of nights the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve (GPHG) more commonly known as the Oscars of watchmaking. Fifteen awards were given – along with a special jury prize for the George Daniels Educational Trust – adding up to a solid mix of safe bets and surprises. So without further ado, here are the?best watches of 2016.AIGUILLE D'OR GRAND PRIXChronometrie Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1Impressive name for an impressive watch. The Chopard-owned brand's debut piece is distinctive and complex, with a vintage-looking octagonal case and a top-notch, constant force fusee chain tourbillon. Excellence doesn't come cheap though. The FB 1 has an RRP of 212,000 CHF.PUBLIC PRIZECzapek Geneve 33 bis Quai des BerguesThe only award based on a popular vote, the Czapek Geneve is an impressive watch, with its Grand Feu dial and pocket-watch inspired movement. In an interesting sign of the times, it's also a watch that exists thanks to crowd funding.REVIVAL WATCH PRIZETAG Heuer Heuer Monza ChronographIronically, this recent award category is all about looking to the past. And we can't think of a more deserving winner than the mighty Monza.ARTISTIC CRAFTS WATCH PRIZEPiaget Protocole XXL Secrets & Lights Venice Micro-MosaicPictures don't do this watch justice. It's just incredible. Five thousand?glass tiles adorn the case and dial of this watch. How could it not win?JEWELLERY WATCH PRIZEChanel Secret Watch Signature GrenatThis is the category where the carats count. And Chanel's cuff with a secret watch managed to outshine dazzling competition from the likes of Piaget's pendant and Voutilainen's stunning casework.SPORTS WATCH PRIZEEberhard & Co. Scafograf 300The sports category is really diverse, with everything from a simple vintage-styled Alpina to incredibly complex Ulysse Nardin and Ressence pieces in the running. Given this mix, we were surprised to see Eberhard's by-the-book diver take out the gong but there's no denying its classic looks.PETITE AIGUILLE PRIZETudor Heritage Black Bay BronzeOf all the awards, this is the one we keep the?closest eye on, mostly because by definition the watches are affordable to mere mortals. This year the under 8000 CHF field had some great entries, particularly from?Hermes and Seiko. Having said that, Tudor's latest take on the Black Bay is an excellent choice.MECHANICAL EXCEPTION WATCH PRIZEAudemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept SupersonnerieMechanical Exception is a somewhat mixed bag of, well, exceptional watches. And while the AP is unlikely to ever be a volume piece, the incredible amount of research and development involved in its creation makes it a worthy winner.TRAVEL TIME WATCH PRIZEFaberge Faberge Visionnaire DTZThe Travel Time category was another strong grouping, but the new (and innovative) movement and distinctive looks of the Faberge set it above the rest.CALENDAR WATCH PRIZEMB&F Legacy Machine PerpetualMB&F had to win a prize with this watch – beautiful in its complexity and with an astonishing movement designed by Stephen McDonnell. Well done Max and friends!TOURBILLON WATCH PRIZEGirard-Perregaux La Esmeralda TourbillonAnother win for a Girard-Perregaux tourbillon! La Esmeralda is a real stunner and a worthy winner, even though we were gunning for Speake-Marin's impressive Black Magister Vertical Double Tourbillon.CHRONOGRAPH WATCH PRIZEMontblanc 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited EditionThe chronograph category was hotly contested this year, with strong entries from Hublot, Eterna and Louis Monet. But Montblanc's heritage-inspired limited edition edged out the competition to take the prize.MEN'S WATCH PRIZEGr?nefeld 1941 RemontoireWe're not sure if the Dutch know what a larrikin' is, but if you look it up in the dictionary there's a picture of the Gr?nefeld brothers. Beyond enjoying the odd beer, they're also outstanding watchmakers, as the visually (and technically) stunning 1941 Remontoire proves.LADIES' HIGH-MECH WATCH PRIZEGirard-Perregaux Cat’s Eye Tourbillon with Gold BridgeGirard-Perreguax has an excellent track record with both tourbillons and women's pieces so it’s great to see them both combined here. We feel an honourable mention should also go to Ludovic Ballouard's quirkily creative Upside Down Art Deco.LADIES' WATCH PRIZEPiaget Limelight Gala Milanese BraceletThe sinuous lines and super-supple Milanese bracelet of the Limelight Gala ensured this Piaget was a stand-out in the diamond-studded line-up.
11.11.16
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