Borna Bosnjak
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s most precious watch gets the most precious metal, with a platinum case and bracelet.Set with 1,028 brilliant-cut diamonds in total, the 101 Secrets Platinum sports a hefty diamond weight of 26.21ct total.It’s also interesting mechanically, powered by the smallest mechanical movement in the world, the JLC Calibre 101.Just in case the relaxation of expectations when it comes to formal events confused anyone, Jaeger-LeCoultre and the 101 Secrets Platinum are here to remind you what a prime example of a cocktail watch looks like. Firmly rooted in the the extravaganza of the Roaring Twenties and with design cues of Art Deco, the 101 Secrets Platinum not only features an impressive diamond weight and a masterful display of gem-setting, but also the smallest mechanical movement in the world. Let’s go through the details.While gem-set watches are often a love-or-hate affair, this is no aftermarket blinged-out Nautilus we’re talking about. While the 101 Secrets is inspired by century-old cocktail watches, Jaeger-LeCoultre states the importance of modern technology in developing such a timepiece. “With the implementation of microtechnology, specialists in CAD and 3D printing developed prototypes following discussions with designers, watchmakers and specialised craftsmen essential steps to ensure the precision of all components before proceeding to final production.”The 101 Secrets measures in at 12.22mm at its widest point, with a thickness of 9.88mm and a bracelet circumference of 160mm. Unfortunately, there’s no on-the-fly adjustment here, but if that’s the kind of thing you’re after, I’m afraid you’ve stumbled onto the wrong article. These dimensions are miniscule in the more general watch arena, but I wouldn’t be worried about the 101 Secrets not standing out enough. This is very much a haute joaillerie accessory first, meant to be paired with haute couture and chaperoned to the MET Gala.But, thanks to the JLC Calibre 101, this is still a watch, so let’s talk about it. In perhaps the only similarity with an Apple Watch, the 101 Secrets will not show the time unless you ask it to. Rather than awkwardly flicking your wrist to awaken a gyro sensor, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s artisans have hidden a diamond-studded button somewhere on the case. Once depressed, the bracelet gently swings open, revealing a teeny-tiny mother-of-pearl dial with two equally teensy blued hands. As the button is released, the book page-like mechanism shuts once more, and hides away the time.This combination of two crafts was executed by JLC’s Metiers Rares division, responsible for everything from rose engine engraving for the Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon to hand-painting intricate dials on the likes of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948. Counting exactly 1,028 brilliant-cut diamonds, the 101 Secrets combines two setting techniques – griffe-setting and grain-setting. The former involves elongated platinum prongs (much harder to work with than gold, for example) clamping down onto the large diamonds that subtly reduce in size. Grain-setting, on the other hand, sees the small diamonds set with tiny platinum beads that are almost imperceptible. Jaeger-LeCoultre quotes 182 hours just for the setting of all 26.21ct of diamonds.The entire project relies on a base movement small enough to fit seamlessly into the bracelet, without compromising its jewellery-first intentions. Luckily, Jaeger-LeCoultre just happens to have the smallest mechanical movement in the world in its arsenal. The Calibre 101 was developed from JLC’s early Duoplan watches in 1929, and though it retains the same 14.8mm (L) x 4.8mm (H) x 3.4mm (T) dimensions as the original, it has been improved in its near-century-long existence. The current variant that powers the 101 Secrets beats at 3Hz, has 98 components, and ticks for up to 33 hours, wound from the caseback side.Jaeger-LeCoultre 101 Secrets Platinum pricing and availabilityThe Jaeger-LeCoultre 101 Secrets is a limited production piece, produced on-demand. Price is on requestBrandJaeger-LeCoultreModel101 Secrets PlatinumReferenceQ2873220Case Dimensions12.22mm (W) x 9.88mm (T) x 29.07mm (L)Case Material950 platinum, set with 1,028 brilliant-cut diamondsWater ResistanceN/ACrystal(s)SapphireDialMother-of-pearlBracelet950 platinum, diamond-set, 160mm circumferenceMovementCalibre 101/5, in-house, manual windingPower Reserve33 hoursFunctionsHours, minutesAvailabilityLimited production, on-demandPricePOA
11.09.24