Jamie Weiss
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While the spotlight is unequivocally shining on IWC’s high complication Portugieser models this Watches and Wonders, the Schaffhausen brand hasn’t forgotten about the more straightforward Portugieser Automatic. Indeed, it has split the Portugieser Automatic collection in twain: bringing back a 42mm model with a beefy power reserve and date window while also updating the time-only 40mm model with two exclusive precious metal models. The lovely new dial colours seen elsewhere in the new Portugieser range can be found here, too – so there’s plenty to get excited about.View this post on InstagramA post shared by Time+Tide (@timetidewatches)Portugieser Automatic 42For the last few years, customers wishing for a complication-free take on the Portugieser only had the Portugieser Automatic 40 range to choose from – but in this era where watch brands are rushing to introduce smaller takes on their popular models (looking at you Blancpain or indeed even IWC), the new Portugieser Automatic 42 collection goes bigger: bringing the Portugieser back to its classically big roots, harking back to the Portugieser Automatic ref. IW50001 of the 2000s as well as the OG Portugiesers of the 1930s.I say complication-free – actually, the Portugieser Automatic 42 features a date window at 6 o’clock as well as a power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock, with the small seconds shifting to the 9 o’clock position. Savvy readers will notice that this is the same dial layout as many of IWC’s Big Pilot models, such as the recently-released Big Pilot's Watch AMG G 63, and that’s because the new Portugieser Automatic 42 uses the same Calibre 52011 as Big Pilot models. A 7-day power reserve at this price point (and crucially, at this case diameter – as the Big Pilot models that use this calibre are all significantly larger at 46mm) is an extremely compelling proposition.The new Portugieser Automatic 42 collection encompasses three different case materials and five different dial colours across six models, with the steel case/dune dial and red gold/obsidian dial models being my personal favourites. All but the steel case/dark blue dial model come mounted on alligator straps, with this sole model featuring a stainless steel bracelet.Portugieser Automatic 42?pricing and availabilityThe IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 is available now. Price: ?A$20,000 (IW501701, IW501702, IW501705), A$21,500 (IW501704), A$38,000 (IW501707), A$40,000 (IW501708)BrandIWC SchaffhausenModelPortugieser Automatic 42ReferencesIW501701 (stainless steel case, silver dial, gold hands)IW501702 (stainless steel case, silver dial, blue hands)IW501704 (stainless steel case, blue dial)IW501705 (stainless steel case, dune dial)IW501707 (red gold case, obsidian dial)IW501708 (white gold case, horizon blue dial)Case Dimensions42.44mm (D) x 13mm (T)Case MaterialStainless steel18k 5n red gold18k white goldWater Resistance50 metresCrystal(s)Sapphire front and backDialSilver, blue, dune, obsidian, horizon blueBraceletSantoni alligator leather with case-matching folding clasps (precious metal models)Black alligator leather strap with stainless steel folding clasps (steel models)Stainless steel bracelet (IW501704 only)MovementCalibre 52011, IWC-manufactured, automaticPower Reserve168 hours (7 days)FunctionsHours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve indicator, dateAvailabilityNowPriceA$20,000 (IW501701, IW501702, IW501705)A$21,500 (IW501704)A$38,000 (IW501707)A$40,000 (IW501708)Portugieser Automatic 40The Portugieser Automatic 40 has also received an update in 2024, with the small seconds indicator now simplified and featuring more pronounced azurage. It’s a subtle change, but one that I think makes this time-only model look more premium. Speaking of premium, like the Portugieser Chronograph, precious metals make a return to the range for these time-only models: namely red gold and white gold. The model that utilises the latter is particularly stunning thanks to its horizon blue sunburst dial.I find dials some of the trickiest elements of watches to write about, as there’s perhaps no other feature of a watch that you really need to see in the flesh to appreciate. However, take my word for it that these new Portugieser dials – across the range – are stunning. The secret to their brilliance is that IWC has applied 15 layers of lacquer to each one, which is fine-ground and then polished to a high gloss finish, with sub-dials milled into both the brass base and the lacquer layer. This creates a depth and brilliance that’s amazing to behold; it’s the sort of thing you’re used to seeing on a Vacheron Constantin, not an IWC.A more substantive change to the Portugieser Automatic 40 is its caseback, which now features an intriguing double glassbox design. There’s effectively a rehaut under the crystal surrounding the movement, which again, helps make the watch feel even more premium and appear somewhat smaller (not that you’d be wearing it upside down). Its calibre 82200 is nicely finished, too, with ample perlage, c?tes de Geneve on the bridge, chamfering and a brushed rotor. Also, both models come in at under A$30,000 for gold, which is pretty exceptional.Portugieser Automatic 40 pricing and availabilityThe IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 is?available now. Price: A$26,500 (IW358401), A$28,000 (IW358402)BrandIWC SchaffhausenModelPortugieser Automatic 40ReferenceIW358401 (red gold case, obsidian dial)IW358402 (white gold case, horizon blue dial)Case Dimensions40.4mm (D) x 12.4mm (T)Case Material18k 5n red gold18k white goldWater Resistance50 metresCrystal(s)Sapphire front and backDialObsidian or horizon blueBraceletSantoni alligator leather, red gold pin buckle (IW358401)Santoni light-blue calfskin, white gold pin buckle (IW358402)MovementCalibre 82200, IWC-manufactured, automaticPower Reserve60 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, small secondsAvailabilityNowPriceA$26,500?(IW358401)A$28,000 (IW358402)
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