Zach Blass
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While there are other debuting collections from IWC that have been unveiled at the fair, I want to hone in on a particular range: the Ingenieur. Nearly 50 years ago, legendary watch designer Gerald Genta birthed the IWC Ingenieur with an integrated bracelet, and after various evolutions, the collection returned closer to its roots in 2023 with the latest-generation Automatic 40. Now, we have seen the range since expand with mere dial refreshes, but as one of the brand's hottest models, it makes sense that this year we see some aggressive expansion introducing new sizes, materials, and even complications. Let's run through them all.IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35First up, those who prefer mid-sized watches will be glad to see the IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 make its debut. While the framework of its design remains the same, a 100-metre water-resistant case affixed to an integrated bracelet and dials bestowed with IWC's grid motif, the Ingenieur Automatic 35 has some notable differences beyond its smaller diameter. Its 1.4mm thinner than the Automatic 40, measuring just 9.4mm thick. To suit the smaller case, IWC has pivoted to the automatic calibre 47110 which has a standard 42 hours of power reserve rather than the five days afforded by the Automatic 40. So, buyers will have to decide which matters more to them: size or endurance.For the first time ever in the current Ingenieur Automatic range, the Automatic 35 boasts an exhibition caseback in all three of its debuting configurations in stainless steel with either a black or silver dial, or 18k 5N gold with a gold-coloured dial.BrandIWCModelIngenieur Automatic 35ReferenceIW324901IW324903IW324906Case Dimensions35mm (D) x 9.4mm (T)Case MaterialStainless steel18k 5N red goldWater Resistance100 metresCrystal(s)Sapphire front and backDialSilver, black or gold gridStrapCase-matching H-link bracelet, butterfly folding claspMovementCalibre 47110, automaticPower Reserve42 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, seconds, dateAvailabilityNowPriceUS$9,950 (steel)US$37,500 (18k 5N red gold)IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 IW328702Are you watching this wishing the Automatic 40 would have gotten the precious metal and exhibition caseback treatment? Well your wish has come true, because IWC is not leaving the Automatic 40 out of the party. Also debuting is a 40mm model, 10.8mm thick, and 100 metres water-resistant, in 18k 5N gold paired with a handsome black dial with the expected grid. Flipping the watch over, you will see the five-day automatic calibre 32111 in full view for the first time inside the Ingenieur.Though it has an exhibition caseback, the watch is actually thinner than its predecessors with a solid caseback. How? Well, the trade-off is the removal of the soft iron cage encasing the movement, and as a result decreasing the watch’s antimagnetic properties. That said, I think most won’t find this to be an Achilles’ heel and welcome an open view of the movement.BrandIWCModelIngenieur Automatic 40ReferenceIW328702Case Dimensions40mm (D) x 10.4mm (T) x 45.7mm (LTL)Case Material18k 5N red goldWater Resistance100 metres, screw-down crownCrystal(s)Sapphire front and backDialBlack, grid motifStrapCase-matching H-link bracelet, butterfly folding claspMovementCalibre 32111, automaticPower Reserve120 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, seconds, dateAvailabilityNowPriceUS$46,600IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 IW328908There is another Automatic 40 to discover, but this time we return to the familiar stainless steel case and bracelet with a solid caseback. So, what's new here? At a glance, it would seem just a green dial, but the story goes a bit deeper. First, this watch has the novelty of being a 1,000-piece limited edition and, in some respects, we have Brad Pitt to thank for this new configuration. This watch is inspired by the customised vintage Ingenieur watch prepared for Pitt worn as the character Sonny Hayes in the highly anticipated upcoming film F1. It not only features a new green dial colour, but IWC has opted to outfit the dial with case-contrasting, gold-plated hands, indices, and date window frame a first for the modern Ingenieur. And by the way, highest marks for perfectly colour-matching the date window to this new dial.BrandIWCModelIngenieur Automatic 40ReferenceIW328908Case Dimensions40mm (D) x 10.8mm (T) x 45.7mm (LTL)Case MaterialStainless steelWater Resistance100 metres, screw-down crownCrystal(s)SapphireDialGreen, grid motifStrapCase-matching H-link bracelet, butterfly folding claspMovementCalibre 32111, automaticPower Reserve120 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, seconds, dateAvailabilityNow, limited to 1,000 piecesPriceUS$12,600IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 IW338903Now let's step things up a notch. For the first time in this generation's Ingenieur lineup, we now have a black ceramic model: the IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 Black Ceramic. While other watch brands have certainly joined in on the party and made advancements in ceramic watchmaking, in 1986 IWC secured the laurel of being the first watchmaker to present a true ceramic wristwatch. Furthermore, black ceramic in particular is meaningful to IWC when you factor in its pioneering designs for Porsche Design as well. Fast forward to the present, IWC continues to flex its mastery of ceramic watchmaking. However, IWC wanted to nail it with the Ingenieur and get it just right considering the metal models are known for their high quality external finishes.It’s hard enough to finish a full ceramic case, and it’s perhaps even more difficult to do so with a full ceramic bracelet. The reason IWC opted for full ceramic, rather than its ceratanium, is because they wanted to maintain a more sophisticated level of mixed-finishing as seen on the metallic Ingenieurs. It also nets a deeper black colour, and this better conveys the luxurious light play that occurs with such mixed finishes.The watch is aptly paired with a black grid dial to keep a more monochromatic look, and flipping the watch over you will find a smoked exhibition caseback to continue the stealthy theme. Beneath the crystal, however, you have the 60-hour automatic 82110 movement. Don't worry, I am not forgetting to share the full dimensions and depth rating. The 100 metre water-resistant case is 42mm in diameter and 11.6mm thick.BrandIWCModelIngenieur Automatic 42ReferenceIW338903Case Dimensions42mm (D) x 11.6mm (T)Case MaterialBlack ceramicWater Resistance100 metresCrystal(s)Sapphire front, smoked sapphire casebackDialBlack, grid motifStrapCase-matching H-link bracelet, butterfly folding claspMovementCalibre 82110, automaticPower Reserve60 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, seconds, dateAvailabilityNowPriceUS$19,500IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 IW344903Last and definitely not least, here is where things get complicated. The final Ingenieur novelty making its debut this year is the Perpetual Calendar 41, the first high-complication Ingenieur in the current generation collection. Despite being a high complication, the measurements are very tame, coming in at 41.6mm x 13.4mm. And for those who prefer to not baby their complicated pieces, you also get a 100-metre depth rating, just like the rest of the Ingenieur family. IWC debuts the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 with the blue dial we recently saw join the Automatic 40 range, but it obviously has some differences, with three sub-dials displaying the indications of the perpetual calendar.With only hours and minutes in the centre, the 3 o’clock sub-dial points to the date, the sub-dial at 6 reveals the month and phase of the Moon, and at the 9 o’clock position you can find the day of the week and leap year indicator. And all of these indications can be advanced in synchronisation simply via the crown thanks to Kurt Klaus and IWC's famed system.Inside and exhibited is the automatic calibre 82600, which boasts 60 hours of power reserve despite being a high-comp movement. Though none of us will be alive to confirm so, thanks to a reduction gear train using two intermediate wheels, the moonphase indication is said to only deviate by one day after 577.5 years.BrandIWCModelIngenieur Perpetual Calendar 41ReferenceIW344903Case Dimensions41.6mm (D) x 13.4mm (T)Case MaterialStainless steelWater Resistance100 metres, screw-down crownCrystal(s)Sapphire front and backDialBlue, grid motifStrapCase-matching H-link bracelet, butterfly folding claspMovementCalibre 82600, automaticPower Reserve60 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, date, day, month, leap year, moonphaseAvailabilityNowPriceUS$46,600
02.04.25