Borna Bosnjak
Gloriously blending modern design and classic watchmaking savoir-faire, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton screams grail watch in any situation. It sits at the pinnacle of Vacheron Constantin's Overseas lineup and deserves its place in the pantheon of the complicated sports watch. Housing a beautifully executed skeletonised perpetual calendar calibre in a case a smidge over 8mm, this is a truly magnificent watch.Party in the frontDial-side, a deep metallic blue is used to highlight the important information of this Overseas. First seen on the white-gold model, the blue dial now combines with the warm tones of the pink gold case. At a glance, it offers a look into the day, date, and month along with a moon-phase indicator that utilizes opaque glass. To help differentiate leap years, the month disc is colour-coded, with a light blue colour indicating the corresponding months.The hour markers and main hands are filled with luminova, with the subdial hands and moon matching them in tone of gold. Grey NAC-treated bridges offset the mirror-polished screws and brushed levers to create plunging depth, tempting your gaze further in.Unmistakably Overseas caseIn classic Overseas fashion, Vacheron Constantin's Maltese cross insignia is imbued within the case design. The six protruding, high-polish edges are interrupted by circular brushing on the bezel's flat face before stepping down to a vertically brushed case. Four discreet pushers are integrated into the side of the case, matched in subtlety by a small Maltese cross-bearing crown. A high polished chamfer runs the length of the 41.5mm case and ties in the 18k 5N pink gold bracelet. It continues the same polished edge down the side of its half-Maltese cross links to a pink gold folding clasp with on-the-fly adjustment.Turned over, it's a simple affair, with a sterile I jest, of course. A screw-on sapphire caseback offers a look into the skeletonisation that extends throughout the movement, more on that in a few sentences time. The overall height of this case is only 8.1mm, which is just astonishing. A total of 50 metres of water resistance is reassuring, seeing as many highly complicated and ultra-slim watches normally do not offer much in that regard. Here we also see the tool-free approach to strap changes, as this watch is accompanied by a calfskin and rubber strap from the factory.Perpetual party in the backThe low profile of the case is all thanks to the extensively finished and openworked calibre 1120 QPSQ/1, which measures in at only 4.05mm thick. Even the movement ring is skeletonised! The movement can be appreciated from both sides of the watch, offering a good look into its modern, NAC-coated surfaces with glistening red rubies. With an overall power reserve of 40 hours, we can see a potential compromise with the barrel's ultra-thin design.Closing thoughtsCalling this watch the horological equivalent of party in the front, party in the back may seem like a disservice to Vacheron Constantin efforts, but it perfectly encapsulates what this watch is. While the name is a bit of a mouthful, this is a phenomenal piece by a highly respected watchmaker, that doesn't take itself too seriously and keeps its sporty soul alive.Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton pricing and availability:The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton is available as a Vacheron Constantin boutique exclusive, the Overseas collection can be viewed here. Price TBA.BrandVacheron ConstantinModelOverseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin SkeletonRef. Number4300V/120R-B642Case Dimensions41.5mm x 8.1mmCase Material18K 5N pink goldDialSapphire blue with 18K 5N pink gold markersCrystalSapphire – front and backStrap18K 5N pink gold bracelet, plus blue calf leather and blue rubberMovementCalibre 1120 QPSQ/1 openworked perpetual calendarPriceTBA
06.04.22