Borna Bosnjak
Even though it’s one of the most involved complications in the industry, developments in expertise and technology have enabled many brands to experiment with the tourbillon. A double tourbillon, however, is more rarely seen. Whether that’s due to the inversely proportional relationship of time and the usefulness of tourbillons in wristwatches or the inherent complexity in such a creation, I don’t know. Zenith, however, didn’t shy away from the latter, and simply don’t seem to care about the former, as in 2019, they released the impressive Defy El Primero Double Tourbillon. This year, the brand is again employing the El Primero 9020 calibre for the new Zenith Defy Extreme Double Tourbillon.Lightweight materialsThe most obvious update for the Defy Extreme Double Tourbillon is with the new case and accompanying materials. Dark grey tones of brushed and polished titanium feature in the case and bracelet of one of the two new models, with a mostly monochromatic finish, save for a few gold details on the dial – more on those later. The 45mm case diameter is actually a 1mm decrease over the predecessor with the same movement, the large size undoubtedly helped by the lighter weight of titanium.Even lighter than titanium is carbon, made nobler by the inclusion of a precious metal – in this case, 18k rose gold. I’m a big proponent of the black-and-gold colour combination, and the combination of high-tech and decidedly classic work well on an avant-garde piece like this. The other objective upgrade comes in the form of water resistance, which doubles to 200m when compared to the Defy El Primero Double Tourbillon.Double tourbillon, 1/100th of a second – and it’s all on showConsidering the piece is part of the Defy Extreme collection and Zenith’s love of skeletonisation, it’s only natural for the Defy Extreme Double Tourbillon to show off its assets dial-side. To help with legibility, the chronograph sub-dials use tinted sapphire discs onto which the markings are printed, the same goes for the power reserve and Zenith branding at 12 o’clock. The left side of the dial is entirely occupied by the two tourbillons. Differing in size owing to their independent frequencies, they’re suspended from black PVD-coated openworked bridges, with chamfers highlighted in rose gold.This rose gold accenting is present throughout the movement, which is a contrast of silver, black and gold. The El Primero 9020 shares similarities with the TAG Heuer Mikrotourbillon S, a hand-wound, twin-tourbillon set up with the escapements beating at 4Hz and 50Hz. The upper of the two tourbillons is responsible for the operation of the chronograph, beating at an astounding 50Hz, meaning that it completes a rotation every 5 seconds. This escapement allows the Defy Extreme Double Tourbillon to measure increments of up to 1/100th of a second. Below is your “standard” one-minute tourbillon, acting as the escapement for the Defy Extreme’s regular timekeeping componentry. It’s also larger in diameter, meaning more inertia and better accuracy due to its reduced beat rate. Having said that, its frequency is by no means slow, beating at 5Hz like many other offerings from Zenith. There are twin barrels, too, one for timekeeping and the other for the chronograph, providing 50 hours and 50 minutes of power reserve, respectively.Zenith Defy Extreme Double Tourbillon pricing and availability:The Zenith Defy Extreme Double Tourbillon is available now from Zenith and official retailers. Price: A$100,000 (titanium), A$114,000 (carbon and 18k rose gold)BrandZenithModelDefy Extreme Double TourbillonReference Number95.9100.9020/78.I00112.9100.9020/78.I200Case Dimensions45mmCase MaterialTitanium (95.9100.9020/78.I001)Carbon and 18k rose gold (12.9100.9020/78.I200)Water Resistance200 metresCrystal(s)SapphireDialOpenworked with sapphire discsStrapTitanium bracelet (95.9100.9020/78.I001)Black rubber with titanium clasp (12.9100.9020/78.I200)MovementEl Primero 9020, double tourbillon, 50 Hz chronograph escapement with 50-minute power reserve, 5 Hz timekeeping escapement with 50-hour power reservePriceA$100,000 (titanium)A$114,000 (carbon and 18k rose gold)
14.12.22