Felix Scholz
Pulling off elegance with a large, muscular body is quite a challenge. It's one IWC have tackled head on at Watches & Wonders with the two new models introduced in their classically styled Portofino line. Alongside their new Portofino Monopusher Chronograph the brand has released the Portofino Hand-Wound Day & Date – powered by the impressive Calibre 59220.On paper, it's difficult to see how a 45mm watch with a massive 8-day power reserve manually-wound movement can come across as elegant, but after trying the watch on, I'm a believer. Not a trace, of doubt in my mind (I'll stop now).IWC have released two versions of Day & Date, a stainless steel option with a silver-plated dial, and the absolutely stunning red gold and slate dial we're looking at today. There's something very contemporary about the combination of red gold and grey, there are more examples here at Watches & Wonders than we have ever seen before – the almost velvety dial imbues the watch with a sense of softness and warmth (the high glassbox sapphire crystal really makes the dial pop too), while still being a large and masculine watch. It's a winning combination.Once we got over the beauty of the Portofino's dial we started to pay attention to what was on it. The impressive 8 day power reserve is indicated on the left, and there's a small seconds hand at six, with the IWC logo in the centre. To the right is a day indication dial – which is directly connected to the date – this means that the day instantaneously leaps forward on the stroke of midnight. And completing the complicated picture is the large date display at 12.There's clearly a lot going on with this dial, especially given the different styles of display, and the watch could have ended up looking quite busy. But there's enough real estate on the dial (thank you 45mm case size) and enough restraint shown in the minimal Portofino design for IWC's designers to achieve a harmonious and balanced watch.The other great thing about the Portofino Hand-Wound Day & Date is the stunning movement – the massive plates, finished with Geneva stripes and circular graining, along with the index-less balance wheel make for an impressive caseback.IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Day & Date Australian pricingThe stainless steel model with a silver-plated dial and Santoni alligator strap (reference IW516201) has a retail price of $18,900.The red gold model with an ardoise (slate) dial and Santoni alligator strap (reference IW516203) has a retail price of $33,200.Images by Marcus Flack.
02.10.15