Fergus Nash
In March this year, Bulgari released the world's thinnest mechanical watch with the Octo Finissimo Ultra, only to be beaten again in July by the Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari by just 0.05mm. While creating another record-breaking watch within a handful of months would be inconceivable, the Bulgari lineup for Geneva Watch Days offers an elegant and daring display of contrasts while they (presumably) work towards taking their title back.Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 DaysWhile thickness is often the headline behind exceptional Octo Finissimo releases, this time the masterminds at Bulgari have designed their new watch around showcasing the extra-fine calibre BVL 199 SK. The movement is still incredibly thin, with the entire watch's height coming in at just 5.95mm, but the focus is placed on the 8-day power reserve which is boldly indicated on the dial next to the small seconds subdial. The grey sprawling bridges that stretch across the watch face are strictly structured in a way that echoes the lines of the Octo Finissimo case itself a love letter to the architecture of Ancient Rome. That blend of beautifully orchestrated industrialism is complimented by the colour scheme, with an 18k pink gold case, the anthracite dial', and a chocolate brown alligator strap.BrandBulgariModelOcto Finissimo Skeleton 8 DaysCase Dimensions40mm x 5.95mm x 46.5mmCase Material18k Pink GoldWater Resistance30 MetresCrystal(s)Sapphire front and rearDialSkeletonised grey and brownLug Width30mmStrapDark brown alligator leather with pin-buckleMovementBVL 199 SKPower Reserve192 hours (8 days)AvailabilityTBCPriceTBCBulgari Octo Finissimo GoldAs if the Bulgari Octo Finissimo needed any more wow factor, we're being treated to three new references within an 18k gold case. If you're thinking that the Octo Finissimo range should be above the “bling” factor that gold usually carries with it, then you have nothing to worry about. The warmth of the rose gold is brought out by a deep chocolate sunburst dial and a matching alligator strap, almost playing into a 1970s palette with more class. The first 40mm model is a simple time-only affair that brings an elegant air of confidence with its solid gold bracelet a touch of luxury that's sure to make you feel good whenever you check the time. The second uses the BVL 318 calibre for chronograph and GMT complications within a 43mm case, bridging the design into a sportier territory. The third and final reference is a limited edition (ref. 103717) of only 50 pieces exclusive to the US market, this time using yellow gold instead of rose gold for a little extra pop on the wrist.BrandBulgariModelOcto Finissimo Automatic (ref. 103717+103637) / Octo Finissimmo Chronograph GMT AutommaticCase Dimensions40mm x 5.95mm x 46.5mm / 43mm x 8.75mm x 48mmCase Material18k Pink Gold / 18k Yellow Gold (103717)Water Resistance100 MetresCrystal(s)Sapphire front and rearDialDeep chocolate sunburst dialLug Width30mm / 33mmStrapDark brown alligator leather with pin-buckle / 18k gold braceletMovementBVL 138 / BVL 318Power Reserve60 hours / 55 hoursAvailabilityTBCPriceTBCBulgari Octo Finissimo Sejima EditionIn a collaborative design between Bulgari and renowned Japanese architect Kazuyo Sejima, this limited edition of 360 pieces really needs to be seen as a real-life object before proper judgement is passed. With focus on contrast and transparency, the sapphire crystal is laden with mirror-like dots that form a sort of mesh effect, allowing you to view the hands beneath with an air of mystique. The case is also entirely polished, throwing some facets into bright silver relief while others are plunged into blackness. Sejima's autograph is signed on the rear sapphire display crystal, with the calibre BVL 138 proudly visible. The micro-rotor allows for automatic winding while containing the case's overall thickness to just 6.4mm.BrandBulgariModelOcto Finissimo Automatic Sejima EditionCase Dimensions40mm x 5.95mm x 46.5mmCase MaterialStainless SteelWater Resistance100 MetresCrystal(s)Sapphire front and rearDialSkeletonised grey and brownLug Width30mmStrapSteel bracelet with folding buckleMovementBVL 138Power Reserve60 hoursAvailabilityTBCPriceTBCBulgari BulgariThe self-titled Bulgari is somewhat of an underdog in the Italian brand's modern catalogue, despite being a staple of their watches for over 40 years. The round case with block lugs and an integrated bracelet provides a pure, undiluted dose of Bulgari essence with the mirrored logo etched into the bezel. This new version of the Bulgari Bulgari takes aim at a streetwear vibe with black DLC applied to a stainless-steel case and bracelet, with a sterile black lacquer dial that gives ultimate contrast to the silver hands and hour markers. The 41mm reference comes equipped with a small date display courtesy of the automatic BVL 191 movement, while the smaller 33mm version is time-only with a quartz movement.BrandBulgariModelBulgariCase Dimensions33mm x 38mm / 41mm x 47mmCase MaterialStainless steel with black DLCWater Resistance50 MetresCrystal(s)Sapphire frontDialBlack lacquerLug Width19mm / 24mmStrapSteel bracelet with black DLC and folding buckleMovementQuartz B043 / BVL 191Power Reserve42 hoursAvailabilityAvailable from Bulgari’s webstore and boutiquesPrice$5,600 AUD / $7,500 AUDBulgari Serpenti SeddutoriThe world of feminine watches is constantly yearning for creativity, and the Serpenti Seddutori is always a range worth browsing. The snake's head case shape doesn't just provide a smooth and interesting alternative to round, rectangular or tonneau shapes, it also conjures specific images of seduction and temptation. For Geneva Watch Days, Bulgari present four new Serpenti references with some truly unexpected results. The first reference and the most surprising of the bunch is the Serpenti Seddutori Tourbillon, with the prized horological complication featured amongst an explosion of precious stones. The 3.65mm thick case plays home to the calibre BVL 150, proving that Bulgari take this watch as seriously as any of their other high-luxury pieces. The case and bracelet are made from white gold, but this practically becomes invisible to the eye behind the dazzling diamonds and spinels.Next are two of the standard' Serpenti Seddutori models, mixing more black-coated steel with rose-gold bezels and dial details, with or without diamonds set into the bezel. Lastly is the Bulgari Serpenti Spiga Ceramic, taking on the same overall appearance as the previous diamond-set reference but now in a case of black ceramic and bonded to a wrist-wrapping ceramic bracelet.BrandBulgariModelSerpenti Seddutori / SpigaCase Dimensions34mm x 9.4mm / 33mm / 35mm (Spiga)Case Material18k white gold / stainless steel with black DLC / black ceramicWater Resistance30 MetresCrystal(s)Sapphire frontDialDiamond pave / blackLug Width17mm / 16mm / 18mmStrap18k white gold / stainless steel with black DLC / black ceramicMovementBVL 150 / QuartzPower Reserve40 hoursAvailabilityTBCPriceTBC
29.08.22