Jamie Weiss
It’s fair to say that TAG Heuer had a particularly impactful year of releases in 2024 – and I’m not just saying that because last year saw Time+Tide release our first collaboration with the brand, the Aquaracer Solargraph x Time+Tide Sundowner'. TAG Heuer seems to be on a tear at the moment, with 2024 seeing the brand dig into its back catalogue to revive multiple fan-favourite designs, collaborate with tastemakers, continue to iterate on the popular Carrera Glassbox and even dabble in haute horlogerie with their first rattrapante wristwatch.TAG Heuer Formula 1 KithThe first watch to bear ‘TAG Heuer’ branding, the Formula 1 from 1986 was a paradigm-shifter. In many ways, it was the original MoonSwatch: an affordable, Swiss, colourful, quartz timepiece that introduced swathes of largely younger customers to the brand… At the cost of some brand equity in the eyes of established enthusiasts. In some ways, TAG Heuer has been recovering from its 80s-era move down-market ever since – so it was a huge statement of intent from TAG to bring the original Formula 1 back in 2024, especially in the way they chose to do it.A collaborative release in partnership with hype-y NYC-based streetwear label KITH, the “KITH Heuer” collection proved almost as controversial as the OG Formula 1’s release was in the 80s. Adjusted for inflation, they were 4 times more expensive than they were in 1986 (as well as 5 times the price of a MoonSwatch at retail), and the KITH co-branding confused some of the less hip in the watch community. But I think this is exactly what TAG Heuer needed: a disruptive, cheeky, relatively affordable and on-trend watch that has introduced the streetwear generation to the brand.Now that the dust has settled, I think most fans agree that this was one of the best TAG Heuer releases in recent memory. Enthusiasts had been clamouring for TAG to bring back the OG Formula 1 for years – and they didn’t half-arse it either, bringing some nice quality-of-life improvements to the table such as sapphire crystal glass, rubber as opposed to plastic straps and a more robust Arnite composite for the case/bezel without compromising its design too much. Price: US$1,500TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph DatoWith the cavalcade of new watches TAG Heuer dropped in 2024, it’s inevitable that some have got lost in the noise. But cast your mind back to January of 2024, when TAG unveiled another modern take on a model that enthusiasts adore: the Carrera Dato 45. Our friends at Hodinkee (more on them in a bit) reissued the Dato 45 in 2021, but that was a limited edition that was quickly snapped up. The Carrera Chronograph Dato that was released last year, however, is not a limited edition – and while it’s not quite as period-correct as previous reissues, it’s arguably even more handsome.Firstly, it’s based on the Carrera Glassbox design which was introduced in 2023 and has proven to be one of the best incarnations of the Carrera ever, period. Secondly, it has an alluring teal green dial that’s quite unlike any other Carreras in (TAG) Heuer’s range. Paired with a supple black alligator leather strap, it has a restrained dressiness that really sets it apart from the pack. However, it’s not as austere as either vintage or more modern Dato 45s. Simply put, I have a soft spot for the Glassbox Dato: I think it’s been rather overlooked yet represents one of the strongest new TAG Heuers of 2024. Price: US$6,550TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph PandaSometimes you don’t need to reinvent the wheel to make a good watch, and that’s precisely what the Carrera Chronograph Panda demonstrates. Inspired by the Heuer ref. 7753 SN first released in 1970 – yet positively brimming with 60s energy – this panda-dialled Glassbox might not bring a new layout or complication to the table, being just a new dial variant, but it arguably represents the most handsome take on the Carrera yet.The devil’s in the details. Its blazing, effervescent silver sunburst is contrasted beautifully by its stark black azurage subdials. Pops of red on the chronograph hands provide a naughty dash of colour, while the running seconds at 6 o’clock is left in silver in order to provide visual balance. I love how the tachymeter scale beneath the box-domed sapphire crystal is also realised in black, too. An 80-hour power reserve, column wheel-utilising movement is the icing on the cake. Price: US$6,650TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Seafarer x HodinkeeCredit where credit’s due: the Hodinkee team know how to make a good collab, and they seem to save their best efforts for when they work with TAG Heuer. A tribute to the Heuer Mareographe and Abercrombie & Fitch Seafarer models of the 50s and late 60s, and building upon the success of the Carrera Glassbox Skipper (a watch that was pre-empted by another Hodinkee collab), this Glassbox Seafarer doubles down on preppy sailing watch vibes while also bringing a complication to the fore.A first-series Heuer Mareograph next to the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Seafarer x HodinkeeVery much a melange of different vintage models, this 42mm model addresses one of the biggest flaws of the original Mareographe/Seafarer – namely, rather dinky pushers – by utilising a large, robust pusher at 9 o’clock to advance the tide indicator alongside the Glassbox’s already beefier pump-style chronograph pushers. It’s a watch that’s clearly borne out of Hodinkee founder Ben Clymer’s genuine affection for Heuer’s history. Price: US$7,950TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds ChronographIn recent years, TAG Heuer has emerged as an unlikely champion in democratising elements of high watchmaking. Tourbillon variants of the Carrera represent some of the most affordable Swiss tourbillon watches on the market, and the brand’s experiments in lab-grown diamonds – crafting entire watch dials and crowns out of single pieces of polycrystalline diamond – are definitely worth taking note of. 2024 also saw TAG Heuer offer its first mechanical split-seconds chronograph movement, the Calibre TH81-00, outside of the context of a piece unique with the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph.This piece’s TH81-00 movement, produced in partnership with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier (who also produce chronograph movements for Richard Mille, among other high-end brands) is impressive enough, boasting a 65-hour power reserve and 5 Hz beat rate, but I actually think the best thing about this watch is how it’s reinterpreted the Monaco’s signature square case. The skeletonised dial is good-looking, but it’s the caseback that’s really novel: rather than simply featuring a sapphire crystal exhibition window, the entire bottom sandwich' of the case is made from a single piece of sapphire, exposing the movement even further.Now, it’s not a cheap watch. There will certainly be many collectors put off by the prospect of a modern TAG Heuer with a six-figure price tag, even if double chronographs are rarely much more affordable in today’s market. But I’m glad TAG are pushing the boat out and trying new things. It’s also a complication that makes perfect sense for the brand, and perfect sense for the Monaco, one of the most iconic chronographs of all time. Price: US$135,000Honourable mention: TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph x Time+Tide Sundowner'Yeah, yeah, you knew this was going to make an appearance on this list – but we’re not so full of ourselves that we’d put our first collaborative limited edition with TAG Heuer as the first entrant on this list. All biases aside, I think the Sundowner does genuinely stand out as one of the best watches TAG Heuer released in 2024 – a conviction supported by the overwhelmingly positive feedback we received from enthusiasts, with all 250 examples selling out near-instantly, as well as the kind words other publications and industry figures had to say about our watch. Again, we can’t thank you enough.While we’ve been fortunate enough to produce collaborative watches with several different watchmakers (heck, we released 3 different limited editions in a single week in January 2024 alone), there’s something particularly special and momentous about working with TAG Heuer. Australia has always had an affinity with the brand – no other watch represents middle class success more than a TAG Heuer here – and the Aquaracer Solargraph has become the brand’s best-selling model Down Under since its introduction. So, getting the chance to make our own version of the Solargraph? That’s bloody grouse, mate.The Sundowner is also noteworthy as the first Aquaracer Solargraph collab, as well as the first TAG Heuer to combine rose gold hardware with a NATO strap. It makes absolute sense for the Australian lifestyle: it’s tough, lightweight and can be worn in the surf yet the hits of rose gold give it a formal edge. Oh, and it’s powered by the relentless Aussie sun. If you haven’t already, read Andrew’s explanation of the Sundowner name and its genesis. And watch this space – we know we want to work with TAG Heuer again, so let’s see what 2025 has in store… Price: A$4,450 (~US$2,760)
05.01.25