Jamie Weiss
In the West, we take it for granted that watches typically use either Roman or Western Arabic numerals to tell the time – but these aren’t the only two numeral systems in the world, far from it. Eastern Arabic numerals (also called Indo-Arabic numerals) are the preferred way to tell time in the Arabian Peninsula as well as parts of Asia, and while some numerals in this system are similar to Western Arabic numerals, it’s a totally different set of numbers. Just as stick indices or Roman numerals impart a particular aesthetic, Eastern Arabic numerals – with their shapely, brush-like forms – have their own appeal.It’s worth pointing out that many of these models are technically out of production, or are special orders – many high-end watch brands have traditionally produced limited runs, piece uniques or limited editions with Eastern Arabics – so this list is a bit of a hodgepodge of different Eastern Arabic-numeralled watches.Seiko 5 SNKOne of the most famous and affordable Eastern Arabic-enumerated watches is the Seiko 5, specifically the references SNKP21J1 (which is 42mm) and SNK063J5 (which is 34mm and features an integrated bracelet). Collectively known as?Arabic Seikos or the “Seik-W.O.E.” (a reference to its popularity in the Watches of Espionage community), the Seiko 5’s everyman appeal and military connotations make it an obvious candidate. Price: US$200Studio Underd0g x Perpetuel Series 02 FieldIn truth, one could pick from any number of Perpetuel limited editions: the Dubai-based watch gallery’s modus operandi with its collaborative models is the use of Eastern Arabic numerals. I’ve decided to highlight their recent collab with our favourite British indie, Studio Underd0g, which takes the colourful but minimal Series 02 Field collection and adds these old-world numerals in place of the sans-serifed Western Arabics it normally sports. All four variants of the Series 02 Field were available with Eastern Arabics as part of this collab, but the Pink Lem0nade variant is the highlight. Price: US$1,634Cartier SantosOver the years, Cartier has produced numerous versions of their iconic Santos with Eastern Arabic numerals for the Middle Eastern market, including both Santos-Dumont and Santos de Cartier models. Of course, through the maison’s “New Special Order” (NSO) program, you could order any Cartier you like with Eastern Arabics – but Santoses (Santosi? Or is it like “sheep” and you just say Santos?) are by far and large the most common Cartiers you’ll see with Eastern Arabics. Price: US$13,340 (ref. WSSA0055)Hublot Classic Fusion Special Edition Bronze AnticlockwiseA limited edition of 100 pieces that debuted at Dubai Watch Week 2019 as an Ahmed Seddiqqi & Sons exclusive, this unusual two-handed bronze take on Hublot’s Classic Fusion not only features Eastern Arabic numerals, but as the name implies, also runs anticlockwise – perhaps a nod to the way you read Arabic, namely right to left. Price (secondary market): ~US$20,000?Franck Muller x Grail Watch Double Sided Rattrapante Chronograph Arabian PandaFranck Muller has long enjoyed a passionate following in the Middle East, but few models have emerged from the brand with Eastern Arabic numerals. This complex chronograph, however, might just be the watch with the most Eastern Arabics. A 20-piece limited edition celebrating Revolution’s Arabian regional edition, this chrono features three different scales – telemeter, tachymeter and pulsometer – across its twin sides, with the reverse side additionally featuring full lume dial elements, nodding to how the cosmopolitan capitals of the Middle East come alive after dark. Price: US$25,500??Rolex Day-DateFamously, you can have a Rolex Day-Date with a day wheel in one of 26 languages – and one of the most common day wheels you’ll see other than an English one is an Arabic one. Rolex has long produced Day-Dates with Eastern Arabic numerals: the model that most collectors associate with Eastern Arabics is the platinum Day-Date 40 ref. 228206, which Rolex launched in 2016. The usage of platinum is symbolic, too, as Islam prohibits men from wearing gold. The Day-Date is already a watch associated with wealth and excess, and Eastern Arabic numerals – with their connotation of the wealth of the Middle East – dial that up to 11, pardon the pun. Perhaps that’s why celebrities like Mark Wahlberg and Tom Brady have been spotted wearing Eastern Arabic Day-Dates. Price: US$82,000 (ref. 228206)F.P. Journe Chronometre Bleu ByblosAll F.P. Journe watches are pretty exclusive, but the Byblos with Eastern Arabics is particularly so. A limited run of 99 pieces produced in 2014 to commemorate the opening of the watchmaker’s 10th boutique in Beirut, this eye-catching take on Journe’s iconic tantalum-cased Chronometre Bleu features a “cut out” dial, which exposes its elegant Calibre 1304 in all its glory. Eastern Arabic numerals on a Mediterranean blue track frame the movement’s guilloched bridges, as well as a unique take on the F.P. Journe logo, where the ‘J’ is written with the Phoenician letter ‘yodh’. These were not cheap watches at retail, and auction results for these (when they do pop up) are eye-wateringly high. Price (secondary market): US$600,000+
05.05.25