The Cartier Tank Normale is the original 1917 Tank design from Louis CartierThis is the 7th entry into the rare Prive collection, succeeding the Crash, Tank Cintree, Tonneau, the Tank Asymetrique, Cloche and Tank ChinoiseOffered in standard and?skeleton forms, with the standard models also available on case-matching precious metal bracelets – all of which are limited editionsThe industry buzzword “novelty” refers to new product. At the most revolutionary, we will have a new complication or design geometry. And, towards the safer side of the spectrum, the novelty of a novelty will be limited to the addition of new dial colors to an existing model. The latest entry into the Cartier Prive collection may have nothing novel about its design, but, in this instance, that is actually its biggest strength rather than a weakness. This is due to the fact that the Cartier Prive line is all about creating rare limited editions that faithfully explore the Maison’s most mythical models. The Cartier Tank is arguably the most iconic Cartier watch design, and a certified icon in watchmaking as a whole. The new Cartier Prive Tank Normale collection we have today faithfully honors the original 1917 Louis Cartier design that birthed the lineup we have today with a range of precious releases that, in a time where vintage Cartier could not be hotter, drooling.The Normale is subtly distinguished from the Tank Louis Cartier most are used to today due to its slightly more squared profile, with more case side that are more compact in length but greater in width. Cartier has remained faithful to the original 1917 design’s proportions, with the new Cartier Prive Tank Normale watches clocking in at 25.7mm in diameter and 32.6mm across the wrist lug-to-lug. This is of course tiny by today’s standards, but, rather than try to speak to modern machismo, Cartier has remained true to the Normale’s origins in a manner befitting of the Prive collections ultimate mission. And, let’s be honest, Cartier will have no issue selling these pieces. In the same way Cartier remained faithful to the original Normale’s proportions, they continued their meticulous attention to detail by also outfitting the watches with a bevelled sapphire crystal to mimic the crystal found on the original as well.A first for the Cartier Prive collection, the new Tank Normale watches, available in yellow gold and a platinum, will not only be available on a leather strap, but also on a bracelet as well. The seven piece brick links, with contrasting satin and polished finishes, are a clear nod to the ’70s and offer prospective buyers a rare chance to own such a vintage-derived aesthetic. The dial layout is, of course, all too familiar, but upon closer inspection you will notice beneath the hours and minutes hands (blued steel on the yellow gold model and steel on the platinum model) that the dial is vertically brushed – a subtle modern distinguishment. Again, this is a very faithful nod to the original design. Not a 1:1.With the point of the Prive collection being to faithfully modernize their “mythical” designs, the new collection offers a spectrum of pieces – four of which skew very close to the original design and skeletonized pair that emphasizes modernity within the contextual codes of the original shape and proportions. The skeletal architecture creates a sunburst effect with bridges, satinated and chamfered, raying out across the dial. This is not random. The skeletonised Normale watches, offered in yellow gold, platinum, and diamond-set platinum, have a day and night indication on the openworked dial.Looking at the image above, you may be confused by the outer hours scale. But, it all makes sense once you realise that the hours hand rotates around the dial once every 24 hours rather than every 12 (the minutes hand still makes a full rotation every hour). So, as the hours hand progresses around the dial it will move around the gradient outer edge making a complete rotation each day. Legible and aesthetically pleasing. Win, win.Cartier Prive Tank Normale collection pricing and availability:The Cartier Prive Tank Normale collection is available now for inquiries. Price: TBABrandCartierModelPrive Tank NormaleCase DimensionsNormale: 25.7mm (D) x 32.6 (L2L)Normale Skeleton: 27.8mm (D) x 35.2mm (L2L)Case MaterialNormale: Yellow gold or platinumNormale Skeleton: Yellow gold, platinum, diamond-set platinumWater Resistance30mDialNormale: WhiteNormale Skeleton: OpenworkedCrystalSapphire crystalBracelet/StrapNormale: Leather strap with ardillon buckle or case-matching braceletNormale Skeleton: Leather strap with ardillon buckleMovementNormale: Manually wound calibre 070Normale Skeleton: Manually wound calibre 9628 MCPower Reserve38 hoursFunctionsHours, minutesAvailabilityLimited EditionsNormale: Yellow gold / platinum on strap (200 pcs.), on bracelet (100 pcs.)Normale Skeleton: Yellow gold / platinum (50 pcs.), diamond-set platinum (20 pcs.)PriceTBA
27.03.23