Borna Bosnjak
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It’s finally that time of year when brands unveil most of their new releases for the year, and Cartier is one of those rare brands that get everyone at the T+T offices truly excited. Whether it’s a dainty gem-set creation, a sporty take on an icon, or a suave IYKYK stunner, there’s something for everyone – and I think I may already have my favourite watch of the fair sorted. Having said that, there are quite a few to pick from, as it tends to go with Cartier, so let’s get into all the releases of the 2024 edition of Watches and Wonders.Prive Tortue MonopoussoirReviving the famous Tortue Monopoussoir of the late ’90s that featured the famous Journe-Flageollet-Halter movement.Available in either platinum or yellow gold, the new Prive Tortue Monopoussoir aims to enhance dial legibility and features a new monopusher chronograph movement measuring only 4.3mm in height.Limited to 200 pieces per metal, it wouldn’t surprise anyone to see it sell out very quickly, though we’ll need to wait and see whether it can capture the IYKYK fanbase like its predecessor.BrandCartierModelPrive Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph WatchCase Dimensions34.8mm (W) x 10.2mm (T) x 43.7mm (LTL)Case Material18k yellow goldPlatinumWater Resistance30 metresCrystal(s)Sapphire crystal front and casebackDialGrained goldSilvered opalineBraceletDark blue alligator leather, yellow gold pin buckleRed alligator leather, platinum pin buckleMovement1928 MC, in-house, manually wound chronographPower ReserveTBCFunctionsHours, minutes, small seconds, monopusher chronographAvailability200 pieces in each metalPriceTBCPrive TortueThough no Cartier Prive watch is ordinary, the non-chronograph Prive Tortue brings a slimmer profile to the understated, 1912-inspired design.The Breguet (or apple, according to Cartier) handset fits right into the early periods of the wristwatch that inspire this Tortue, as do the Roman numeral dials and slender, precious-metal cases.The three new models are all powered by the 430 MC, a manually winding calibre based on the Piaget 430P that’s only 2.1mm in height in its round variant.BrandCartierModelPrive TortueCase Dimensions32.9mm (W) x 7.2mm (T) x 41.4mm (LTL)Case MaterialPlatinum, diamondsPlatinumYellow goldWater Resistance30 metresCrystal(s)Sapphire frontDialSilvered opaline or grained goldBraceletBurgundy or blue alligator leather, case-matching pin buckleMovement430 MC, Piaget 430P base, manual windingPower Reserve38 hoursFunctionsHours, minutesAvailabilityGem-set platinum model limited to 50 piecesPlatinum and yellow gold models limited to 200 piecesPriceTBCSantos de Cartier Dual TimeThe Santos de Cartier heads in a decidedly sporty direction, aiming to become the go-to jet-setter’s watch with its new Dual Time complication.Neatly integrated at 6 o’clock, the second time zone and day/night indicator combine with a subtle anthracite dial to look like any regular Santos. The matched day wheel is a nice touch.Cartier hasn’t provided any details of the new movement yet, though it’s likely to be a modular addition to the base 1847 MC movement.BrandCartierModelSantos de Cartier Dual TimeCase Dimensions40.2mm (D) x 10.1mm (T) x 47.5mm (LTL)Case MaterialStainless steelWater Resistance100 metresCrystal(s)Sapphire frontDialAnthracite grey sunburstBraceletSteel bracelet and anthracite grey alligator strap, folding clasp, QuickSwitch systemMovementAutomatic, details TBCPower ReserveTBCFunctionsHours, minutes, seconds, date, dual time, day/night indicatorAvailabilityTBCPriceTBCSantos de CartierAlongside the Dual Time, the three-handed Santos de Cartier range expands with new colourways, most notably a delicious pair of chocolate browns.Two Large models are presented, in two-tone with a grey dial, and the aforementioned brown, while the third is a Medium.Powered by the 1847 MC, I have no doubt that these will be as popular as the green Santos was upon its release.BrandCartierModelSantos de Cartier LargeSantos de Cartier MediumCase Dimensions39.8mm (W) x 9.4mm (T) x 47.5mm (LTL) (Large)35.1mm (W) x 8.8mm (T) x 41.9mm (LTL) (Medium)Case MaterialYellow gold and stainless steel (Large)Stainless steel (Large and Medium)Water Resistance100 metresCrystal(s)Sapphire frontDialGrey sunburst, brown sunburstBraceletSteel bracelet and dial-matching alligator leather strap, steel folding buckle, QuickSwitch systemMovement1847 MC, in-house, automaticPower Reserve42 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, seconds, date (Large)Hours, minutes, seconds (Medium)AvailabilityRegular-production modelsPriceTBCSantos-Dumont RewindFor a brand that takes itself as seriously as Cartier, the Santos-Dumont Rewind is an unexpected breath of fresh air, sporting a backwards-running, manually wound movement.Taking the form of the 31.5mm Santos-Dumont, the dial’s backwards Roman numerals will surely take a while for people to get used to, though I’ve no doubt the 200-piece run will quickly sell out and become highly sought-after on the secondary market.Details about the 230 MC are again sparse, but I’m fully expecting it to just be a reversed 430 MC that’s in the rest of the manually wound Santos-Dumont range.BrandCartierModelSantos-Dumont RewindCase Dimensions31.5mm (D) x 7.3mm (T) x 43.5mm (LTL)Case MaterialPlatinumWater Resistance30 metresCrystal(s)Sapphire frontDialCarnelian red sunburstBraceletRed alligator leather, platinum pin buckleMovement230 MC, manual winding, reversedPower ReserveTBCFunctionsHours, minutesAvailability200 piecesPriceTBCSantos-Dumont LacquerSpeaking of the Santos-Dumont, Cartier is also releasing a fresh new trio of lacquered models, with two non-limited editions entering the fray alongside a green, platinum-cased LE.All three opt for Arabic numerals instead of the Romans found on their predecessors, otherwise identical in case size.Manually wound, with a 38-hour power reserve, the ultra-thin 430 MC is based on the Piaget 430P.BrandCartierModelSantos-DumontCase Dimensions31.5mm (D) x 7.3mm (T) x 43.5mm (LTL)Case MaterialPlatinum18k yellow gold18k rose goldWater Resistance30 metresCrystal(s)Sapphire frontDialOlive green (platinum)Taupe grey (yellow gold)Peacock blue (rose gold)BraceletDial-matching alligator leather strap with case-matching ardillon buckleMovement430 MC, Piaget 430P base, manual windingPower Reserve38 hoursFunctionsHours, minutesAvailabilityPlatinum limited to 200 piecesYellow gold and rose gold are regular productionPriceTBCReflection de CartierThe Reflection de Cartier marks our entry into the brand’s jewellery like creations for the year, described by Cartier’s Marie-Laure Cerede as a “veritable sculpture to wear on the wrist”.The four models are naturally available in highly bejewelled variants, but the coolest thing about them is the highly polished surface facing the dial that offers a distortion-free reflection bining multiple setting techniques of the diamonds, opal, amethysts, garnets and other gemstones, the Reflection collection is making the most of the resurgence of the small, blingy piece.BrandCartierModelReflection de CartierCase Dimensions18.4mm (W) x 9.9mm (T) x 17.5mm (H)Case Material18k white gold, optional gem-setting18k rose gold18k yellow goldWater Resistance30 metresCrystal(s)Sapphire frontDial18k white goldSandblasted silverBracelet18k white gold, optional gem-setting18k rose gold18k yellow goldMovementQuartzPower ReserveTBCFunctionsHours, minutesAvailabilityTBCPricePOAAnimal Jewellery WatchWith a softly squared dial aperture reminiscent to that of the Pebble, the Animal Jewellery Watch continue the tradition started by the first watch inspired by the panther from 1914.For 2024, Cartier combines inspiration from the zebra and the crocodile to create the swirling pattern surrounding the fully gem-set cases.The quartz-powered collection is available in rose, yellow or white gold, with ruby, garnet, spinel and diamond setting.BrandCartierModelAnimal Jewellery WatchCase DimensionsTBCCase Material18k rose gold, white gold or yellow gold, gem-setWater ResistanceN/ACrystal(s)Sapphire frontDial18k rose gold, white gold or yellow gold, gem-setBraceletBlack calfskin and black/blue alligator leather, case-matching ardillon buckleMovementQuartzPower ReserveTBCFunctionsHours, minutesAvailabilityTBCPricePOAPanther Jewellery WatchEven more obvious in regards to its inspiration is the Panther Jewellery Watch, bringing Cartier’s signature beast to more haute joaillerie pieces.?If the “subtle” sapphire and emerald setting isn’t quite enough bling, you can also opt for some rhodolite and spessartite garnets on top of the onyx and diamonds, along with a complex enamel dial.It may be hard to discern due to the gem setting, but both of these watches come with white gold cases.BrandCartierModelPanther Jewellery WatchCase DimensionsTBCCase Material18k white gold, diamonds and sapphires18k white gold, rhodolite and spessartite garnets, onyx, and yellow and white diamondsWater ResistanceN/ACrystal(s)Sapphire frontDial18k white gold, set with diamonds and sapphiresEnamel motifBracelet18k white gold, gem-setIridescent purple and brown calfskin, ardillon buckleMovementQuartzPower ReserveTBCFunctionsHours, minutesAvailabilityTBCPricePOACrocodile Jewellery WatchThe Crocodile Jewellery Watch plays even more into the inspiration for the Animal Jewellery, with more distinct crocodilian features, and more gems, naturally.Wrapping around the pebble-shaped case, Cartier’s crocs are rendered in tourmalines, sapphires, emeralds, mother-of-pearl, and diamonds.Alongside the gems, the cases are finished with gradient enamel continuing outwards from 2 o’clock on the dial.BrandCartierModelCrocodile Jewellery WatchCase DimensionsTBCCase Material18k white gold, emeralds and diamonds18k white gold, tourmalines, emeralds, mother-of-pearl, sapphires, diamondsWater ResistanceN/ACrystal(s)Sapphire frontDialSunray silver with emerald hour marker18k white gold, tourmalines, emeralds, mother-of-pearl, sapphires, diamondsBracelet18k white gold, gem-set18k white gold, gem-set or alligator leatherMovementQuartzPower ReserveTBCFunctionsHours, minutesAvailabilityTBCPricePOATiger Jewellery WatchJust like the Crocodile, the Tiger Jewellery Watch incorporates the feline’s head as if presenting the watch in its jaws.The stripes contrast against a white gold and yellow and orange sapphire base with black spinels.These new designs enrich the Cartier bestiary in watchmaking, whether figurative or abstract, real or imaginary, they translate a natural beauty”, explains Pierre Rainero, Cartier’s Director of Heritage, Image, and Style.BrandCartierModelTiger Jewellery WatchCase DimensionsTBCCase Material18k white gold, set with black spinels, garnets, yellow and orange sapphires, diamondsWater ResistanceN/ACrystal(s)Sapphire frontDialSunray brushed gold, diamond hour markerBracelet18k white gold, set with black spinels, garnets, yellow and orange sapphires, diamondsMovementQuartzPower ReserveTBCFunctionsHours, minutesAvailabilityTBCPricePOA
09.04.24