Borna Bosnjak
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Cartier’s path to mainstream watchmaking recognition is a curious one. It was a brand that was always well-respected by both those who knew nothing about watches, and those who were deep into the hobby. And yet, those casual watch fans were the ones that most often disregarded them as just “the brand that makes the Tank“. Over the last few years, that perspective has fully shifted, which is surely one of the reasons why Cartier has been happy to experiment with shapes new and old. The brand’s foci for this year’s Watches and Wonders are a great show of that, with a legend being revived, alongside some quality of life improvements in its classical daily wearers, and plenty of haute horlogerie meets haute joaillerie goodness too.Cartier Prive Tank GuichetsLet’s get the watch that will likely be on many people’s “best of” lists as the fair concludes. The new Tank Guichets joins Cartier’s exclusive Prive line with four references, three of which are non-limited, but don’t let that fool you into thinking you’ll be able to pick one up. Available in yellow gold, rose gold, or platinum, the non-limited trio closely resembles the original Tank Guichets from 1928, with its 12 o’clock crown and jumping hours/dragging minutes display, though it’s the fourth model that’s perhaps most curious. It switches the orientation of the numerals to face the right side of the watch, in a limited run of 200 pieces that are not likely to last.BrandCartierModelPrive Tank GuichetsCase Dimensions24.8mm (W) x 6mm (T) x 37.6mm (LTL)Case Material18k yellow gold, 18k rose gold, platinumWater ResistanceNon water-resistantCrystal(s)Sapphire aperture crystalsDialBrushed front, hours and minutes aperturesStrapColoured alligator leather strap, case-matching pin buckleMovement9755 MC, manually woundFunctionsJumping hours, dragging minutesAvailabilityEnquire at your local Cartier boutiquePlatinum variant with asymmetric display limited to 200 piecesPriceUS$47,700 (gold)US$55,500 (platinum)US$61,200 (platinum, asymmetric)Cartier Tank Louis Cartier AutomaticThe Tank Louis Cartier is easily the most effortlessly elegant of all the Tank models. With slim, rounded brancards outlining its rectangular case shape, the latest Tank LC doesn’t seem to be all that different except for its new sunray textured dials. The real upgrade hides beneath the solid caseback in the form of the Calibre 1899 MC, the most traditional and recognisable of all the different Tank models. It’s been a while since we’ve seen a self-winding movement in the Tank LC, something like 50 years, though, I wouldn’t worry about this changing the formula too much. It’s only 2mm wider and thicker, and 5mm taller than the extant “Large” manual-winder, and you can read more about the new Tank Louis Cartier Automatic here.BrandCartierModelTank Louis Cartier AutomaticCase Dimensions27.75mm (D) x 8.18mm (T) x 38.1mm (LTL)Case MaterialYellow gold, rose goldWater Resistance30 metresCrystal(s)Sapphire frontDialFlinque enamelStrapMatte grey or brown alligator leather, case-matching pin buckleMovementCalibre 1899 MC, in-house, automaticPower Reserve40 hoursFunctionsHours, minutesAvailabilityAvailable nowPriceUS$14,900Cartier Panthere de CartierThe Panthere has enjoyed revived interest in recent times, but mostly in its less elaborate variants – think steel, or “just” yellow gold. But Cartier knows that it’s a timeless brand, and that pretty much anything it comes out with will be met with oohs and aahs, and so we were treated to a small selection of gem-set and optionally lacquered Panthere models for W&W 2025. The hero piece is certainly the fully set Medium model with lacquered stripes akin to that of a big cat – even though panthers technically have spots, being melanistic leopards or jaguars, but I digress. It more than makes up for it with its smattering of spessartite gemstones that give it unique warmth, and if that’s a bit too blingy for you, you can go for one of the other three sizes where the gem-setting stops at the case.BrandCartierModelPanthere de CartierCase Dimensions20mm (W) x 6mm (T) x 25mm (LTL) (Mini)22mm (W) x 6.05mm (T) x 30.3mm (LTL) (Small)26.7mm (W) x 6.8mm (T) x 36.5mm (LTL) (Medium)Case material18k rose gold or 18k yellow gold, semi-diamond-set18k rose gold, lacquered set with diamonds, spessartites (Medium only)Water Resistance30 metresCrystal(s)Sapphire frontDialBlack enamel on 18k goldBraceletCase-matching five-link bracelet, butterfly claspMovementQuartzPower ReserveN/AFunctionsHours, minutesAvailabilityNowPriceUS$35,100 (Mini)US$44,600 (Small, semi-set)US$54,000 (Medium, semi-set)POA (Medium, full-set)Cartier Panthere Jewellery WatchIf the Panthere de Cartier didn’t quite have enough big cat for you, Cartier has you covered with this wild Panthere bangle. Taking on the shape of the Reflection introduced last year, the small watch side curves around your wrist to become a leaping panther stretching its paws out towards you. It’s available in yellow or white gold flavours, with the former limiting itself to a diamond-set bezel, but with a watch (?) like this, you may as well go all out. And all-out it goes, with a beautiful diamond-setting technique that disappears towards the hinge of the bangle, with the panther getting emerald eyes and onyx spots. See, they’re spots – Cartier knows what a panther looks like.BrandCartierModelPanthere Jewellery WatchCase Dimensions150mm, 160mm or 170mm circumferenceCase material18k yellow gold, diamonds, tsavorites, onyx, black lacquer18k white gold, diamonds, emeralds, onyxWater Resistance30 metresCrystal(s)SapphireDialBlack (yellow gold)Diamond-set (white gold)BraceletCase-matching hinged bangleMovementQuartzPower ReserveN/AFunctionsHours, minutesAvailabilityNowPriceUS$68,000 (yellow gold)POA (white gold)Cartier TressageLast, but not least, we have the Cartier Tressage, the first watch from the jewellery line introduced back in 2023. French for “braiding”, you can see where the inspiration came from this particular sculpture, with two interwoven bands lining the sides of what looks to be an almost Tank-like watch underneath. There are several variants once again, with options for diamond setting too, but here I’d honestly have to go with the contrast of yellow gold and black. It fully expresses the shapely sides, and it’s one of Cartier’s jewellery creations that won’t be impossible to pull of casually either, with time-telling not overly obscured by the elaborate design.BrandCartierModelTressage WatchCase Dimensions25.7mm (W) x 11.5mm (T) x 56.2mm (LTL)Case Material18k yellow gold18k white gold18k yellow and white goldWater Resistance30 metresCrystal(s)SapphireDialBlack lacquer or snow-set diamond paveStrapBeige, black, or blue calfskin leather strapMovementSwiss quartzPower ReserveN/AFunctionsHours, minutesAvailabilityAvailable nowPriceUS$40,000 (yellow gold)US$75,500 (two-tone)US$122,000 (diamond-set white gold)US$134,000 (sapphire-set white gold)
05.04.25