Borna Bosnjak
Bulgari and MB&F collaborate for a second time, with the Serpenti taking on its most avant-garde shape yet.The Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti will be available in three metals, each showing off the five uniquely shaped sapphire crystals that give the snake its presence.This collaborative serpenti is limited to 33 pieces per metal, priced at US$148,000 in titanium and steel, and US$170,000 in red gold.Though Bulgari isn’t a brand that shies away from a spot of haute horlogerie, these high-end pieces usually take on fairly restrained styling and let their mechanical intricacy do the talking. The tri-tone-chiming Octo models released in 2024 are about as wild as it gets without some form of elaborate gem-setting – this is where Bulgari’s jewellery know-how comes in, and rarely has any limits. Helping continue the Serpenti’s push into more compelling mechanical watchmaking territory, it just so happened that the brand already had a working relationship with Max Busser, as the two have collaborated on MB&F’s LM FlyingT Allegra that was kitted out in Bulgari gems. For the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti, it’s a Bulgari icon that MB&F got their hands on, and went to town with – and when you have minds like those of Max Busser and Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani come together, it’s really no surprise the result is striking.MB&F already has experience in animating animal-themed watches, but the step from amphibian to reptile was not that simple. Busser explains: “Nevertheless, the biomorphic design of this watch created enormous challenges in terms of the case but also the movement. The intricate case is entirely machined with five-axis 3D mills and holds the five sapphire crystals which were not only extremely complicated to make but equally challenging to fit due to the curved nature of the case and the desire for a water resistance of 30 meters.Buonamassa Stigliani’s wish was to bring the eyes of the snake to life, which made them a perfect candidate for the two time-telling domes fashioned from paper-thin aluminium. They’re also painted with lume, giving the serpent’s eyes an eerie glow in the dark. And at the centre of it all is MB&F’s signature oversized, flying balance wheel, leisurely beating away above the escape wheel.With the exposed “eyes” and “brain” at the front, the case tapers in a teardrop shape, with the two crowns jutting out at the very end similarly to what you’d find in the triangular head of a viper. But at the same time, the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti also incorporates automotive touches, something that its designers didn’t originally intend. The rear sapphire crystal is stepped, with two striped, cam cover-like bridges on either side – making it look like louvres giving you a glimpse into the heart of some high-revving beast.There are three colourways available, each in a separate metal. The stealthy black PVD-coated steel is given red highlights, the cool grey tones of titanium pair nicely with blue, and the 18k red gold case gets appropriate green additions. The case is widest at the front, measuring 39mm across, with a maximum thickness of 18mm and a lug-to-lug of 53mm. Not that these measurements are really what we should be focusing on when it comes to any MB&F product, but hey ho.If you’re an MB&F fan, looking at the hand-wound calibre without the sleek case might give you a hint as to which movement it was that the brand adapted for the Serpenti. The bulging eyes below the balance wheel, and the centrally mounted barrel point to the HM10 Bulldog, though MB&F does say that significant changes had to be made to accommodate the new case. For starters, gone is the power reserve-indicating jaw, replaced by a simple pointer on the caseback, though the beat rate remains at a steady 2.5Hz, with a power reserve of 45 hours.Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti pricing and availabilityThe Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti is a limited edition of 99 pieces, with 33 in each metal. Price: US$148,000, CHF 132,000 (titanium, steel), US$170,000, CHF 152,000 (18k red gold)BrandBulgari x MB&FModelSerpentiCase Dimensions39mm (W) x 18mm (T) x 53mm (LTL)Case materialGrade 5 titaniumPVD-coated stainless steel18k red goldWater Resistance30 metresCrystal(s)Five sapphire crystalsDialTwo aluminium sub-dial domes, openStrapVelcro rubber strap, case-matching pin buckleMovementMB&F in-house movement, manual windingPower Reserve45 hoursFunctionsHour dome, minute dome, power reserveAvailabilityLimited to 33 pieces in each metalPriceUS$148,000, CHF 132,000 (titanium, steel)US$170,000, CHF 152,000 (18k red gold)
11.02.25