French artist Laurent Grasso joins the likes of Tadao Ando, Kazuyo Sejima, and more with a collaborative Bulgari Octo Finissimo.It has a matte midnight blue PVD coating for its case and bracelet.The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Laurent Grasso Edition is limited to 200 pieces, priced at CHF 18,900.The Bulgari Octo Finissimo collection is largely known for its record-breaking references, producing the thinnest timepieces in the world (except for the thinnest tourbillon). Back in April, Bulgari reclaimed the record for the thinnest mechanical watch ever made with its 1.7mm thick Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC (yes, it is also mind-blowingly a COSC chronometer as well). But aside from the GPHG prizes and laurels, I particularly have enjoyed how the Octo Finissimo has become an artistic canvas for collaborators.Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bulgari’s Product Creation Executive Director and designer of the Octo Finissimo, is an incredible artist himself, debuting a distinct integrated bracelet watch that boasted a highly faceted, baroque, and ultra-thin design with a minimalist dial aesthetic that oozed subtle Italian swagger. I once very sincerely considered the idea of having Fabrizio sketch the Finissimo onto my forearm to become the basis of a tattoo, but I was too chicken – both in asking the man for his permission and in fear of the pain I would endure for what would be my first tattoo. But you have likely seen his sketches. For a watch nerd like me, it probably would have been worth shooting my shot.Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sejima EditionToo many chefs in the kitchen can often cause problems, but Fabrizio and Bulgari have a long track record of producing handsome limited editions in collaboration with other artists. The various Tadao Ando Octo Finissimos are highly coveted pieces, and for whatever reason, when one of the lucky owners happens to part with one, they appear on the secondary market at a sizeable premium. I vividly remember being mesmerised (while also wondering if it would be too easy to scratch) when I saw the Sejima Edition at Geneva Watch Days years back – in awe of its invisible train-inspired, fully mirrored aesthetic.The new Bulgari Octo Finissimo Laurent Grasso Edition, pending a chance to get hands-on with it, stands to become my favourite collaborative Octo Finissimo yet. It’s clear to me that these renders do not do it full justice, but what you are seeing above is a titanium case and bracelet that has undergone a matte midnight blue PVD coating. That alone is striking, but the twist Laurent Grasso brings to the dial is really eye-catching as well.A French conceptual artist known for incorporating his love for science and the cosmos into his artworks in various mediums, Grasso sought to bring an iridescent midnight look to the Octo Finissimo. I thought of iridescent clouds – unique and almost magical formations, Grasso explains. The particles in suspension and myriad frozen water droplets diffract light, rendering the cloud iridescent with multiple colours. I find this phenomenon fascinating, and the dialogue with Fabrizio began with looking for ways of recreating it on the dial.Like the case and bracelet, the dial and hands have also received a blue PVD coating with the cloud pattern created using a serigraphy technique with metallic pigments. What actually resonates with me even more than just the aura and colour of the cloud motif is the fact that the clouds and dial as a whole have this canvas-like look up-close that makes the dial appear like a true painting. Any fine watch can be described as art, but this is irrefutably art on the wrist.In both Bulgari’s and Grasso’s pursuit to have all details considered, the in-house micro-rotor calibre within has a silhouette of the clouds perfectly reflected on its exhibition case back that could trick the eye into thinking there was an oil spill on the movement – albeit a very artistic, cloudy oil spill. The sapphire caseback also has Grasso’s signature and “LIMITED EDITION OF 200” etched onto its surface.Having seen some live imagery that I am very envious someone else was able to shoot, the midnight blue of all the components appears far more vibrant, yet mysterious (if that makes sense) than the renders convey. While a lot of thought went into realising this collaborative concept, I appreciate how, with effectively a small takeover of the dial in an unobtrusive position, Grasso was able to leave his mark without being overbearing on the tenants of what makes a Finissimo a Finissimo. My only concern, however, is how the blue PVD coating will hold up over time. Then again, does the potential patination or blemishing of its external surfaces become a part of the artwork?While some complain the Octo Finissimo’s larger dial can give the illusion the overall watch is larger than it is, this element makes it a ripe canvas for Stigliani-approved artistic collaboration and experimentation. So, I very much hope Bulgari continues to do these sorts of limited editions as they have been.Bulgari Octo Finissimo Laurent Grasso Edition pricing and availabilityThe Bulgari Octo Finissimo Laurent Grasso Edition is available now as a limited edition of 200 pieces. Price: CHF 18,900 (~US$21,700)BrandBulgariModelOcto Finissimo Laurent Grasso EditionReference104005Case Dimensions40mm (D) x 5mm (T) x 46mm (LTL)Case MaterialBlue PVD-coated titaniumWater Resistance30 metresCrystal(s)Sapphire crystal, front and backDialBlue, serigraphy cloud patternStrapBlue PVD-coated titanium bracelet, butterfly closureMovementBVL 138, in-house, micro-rotor automaticPower Reserve60 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, secondsAvailabilityLimited to 200 piecesPriceCHF 18,900
07.11.24