Jamie Weiss
Breitling introduces the Caliber B31 – the first three-hand manufacture movement designed and developed by the brand – with a new Top Time model.Measuring 38mm in diameter and boasting chronometer certification, the Top Time B31 forgoes a chronograph function but retains a motorsports-inspired aesthetic.To introduce this new movement and model, the Swiss brand has tapped American actor Austin Butler to join their “Breitling Squad”.First introduced in 1964 and famously appearing on James Bond’s wrist in Thunderball (1965), the Breitling Top Time has always been a chronograph. However, in much the same way that the modern Breitling Chronomat and Navitimer ranges now include non-chronograph models, Breitling has expanded the Top Time range with a new three-hander model, which serves as the debut for the brand’s Calibre B31: the first three-hand manufacture movement designed and developed by the brand. And they’ve got Austin Butler, made famous by his starring role in Elvis (2022) and appearance in Dune: Part Two (2024), to debut the watch to boot, joining a star-studded brand ambassador roster that includes names like Giannis Antetokounmpo, Erling Haaland and Charlize Theron.Butler is a cool dude, but we’re admittedly less focused on Breitling’s new brand ambassador and more interested in the watch they’ve got on his wrist. In many ways, the Breitling Top Time B31 makes more ‘sense’ than the three-handed Navitimers and Chronomats in Breitling’s catalogue: since its inception, the Top Time was a fashion-forward watch; a youthful, stylish counterpart to Breitling’s more aviator-focused chronographs and tool watches. If there was a Breitling chronograph to turn into a three-hander, the Top Time is the natural candidate.Aesthetically, the three launch models of the Top Time B31 still retain clear design DNA from the chronographs they owe their genesis to, namely featuring a two-tone aesthetic with chapter rings in a contrasting colour. There’s a blue dial model with a white chapter ring, a white dial model with a sky blue chapter ring, and a green dial model with a black chapter ring. All three feature racy orange seconds hands and can be had on either a rally-style perforated leather strap or an angled-link steel bracelet. Measuring 38mm in diameter and 10.3mm thick, the Top Time B31 offers very approachable proportions as well as a swim-ready 100-metre water resistance rating.Under the hood is where things get more interesting for us watch nerds. The Calibre B31 is a COSC-certified chronometer, has a free-sprung balance wheel, date function and impressive 78-hour power reserve. But note the “manufacture movement” terminology, which is different to “in-house”: Breitling explains that “for the production of components, the Breitling Chronometrie relies on its network of trusted suppliers, while movement assembly will be shared by Breitling and on a dedicated line with AMT in La Chaux-de-Fonds”.AMT, for those who don’t know, is movement powerhouse Sellita’s technical arm, which produces bespoke movements for a number of brands in the Swiss watch industry, notably TAG Heuer. What does this all mean? It means that the Calibre B31 is not an in-house movement, strictly speaking, but it’s a movement that’s exclusive to Breitling. More importantly for the end consumer, it has more than decent specs and is representative of modern Breitling’s move away from off-the-shelf movements towards more in-house capabilities.Breitling Top Time B31 pricing and availabilityThe Breitling Top Time B31 is available now from Breitling retailers. Price: US$5,600/A$8,190/4,550 (leather), US$5,900/A$8,590/4,850 (bracelet)BrandBreitlingModelTop Time B31Reference NumberAB3113A71C1A1AB3113A71C1X1AB3113171L1A1AB3113171L1X1AB3113281A1A1AB3113281A1X1Case Dimensions38mm (D) x 10.3mm (T) x 45.8mm (LTL)Case MaterialStainless steelWeight54 g (watch head), 65.84 g (on strap), 123.8 g (on bracelet)Water Resistance100 metresCrystal(s)Sapphire front and backDialBlue with a white inner ring, green with a black inner ring and white with a sky-blue inner ringLug Width20mmStrapBlue, green or beige racing-themed calfskin leather strap with pin buckleStainless steel angled-link bracelet, folding claspMovementCalibre B31, Sellita AMT base, automaticPower Reserve78 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, seconds, dateAvailabilityAvailable nowPriceUS$5,600/A$8,190/4,550 (leather)US$5,900/A$8,590/4,850 (bracelet)
27.03.25