Tom Austin
Breguet’s new Marine Tourbillon 5577 is a fitting tribute to the history of Breguet’s most famous inventionAvailable in luscious 18k rose gold or stealth-wealth 950 platinum, the watch is as finely finished as you’d expectThe Marine is inherently a sports watch, with 100m water resistance, but with a classical designMechanical timekeeping once played a much more critical part in our lives than it does today. In the 1800s, the French Navy was experiencing difficulties determining their location based on astronomy and the undulating seas causing subtle shifts in the timekeeping mechanisms on board. Meanwhile, back in Switzerland, Abraham-Louis Breguet had observed that mechanical watches of the era were experiencing regulation problems and that gravity was the culprit. In 1801, his tourbillon complication was born, a contraption which encased the entire escapement within a mobile carriage, negating the effects of gravity on a movement’s regularity. Eventually, by royal appointment, the technology was introduced into maritime navigational equipment, and some of history’s greatest explorers' ships sailed equipped with a timekeeping system by Breguet, having solved the challenge. The Breguet Marine Tourbillon 5577 is a powerful tribute to Abraham-Louis Breguet and the brand’s connection to maritime history. Released as a pair available in either rose gold or platinum, the 5577 is a new addition to the Marine line, which thus far interpreted the brand’s traditional values in a sportier way.The Marine line from Breguet is a staple in their collection, and the 5577’s overall styling is characteristically a Marine watch, with the signature case design, thin bezel, and three-pronged lugs extending from each end of the 42.5mm case. While relatively large in diameter, it maintains some sleekness by being just 9.35mm thick, which doesn’t quite make it the thinnest Breguet tourbillon, but keeps it at a more than comfortable size. Small crown guards hint at the watch’s sporty intentions, without looking overly robust and ruining its lines. Aesthetically, the case is a beautiful combination of contemporary proportions and classic design elements, down to the ribbed motif around the sides, and the blend of brushed and exquisitely polished surfaces.If the dial isn’t eye-catching enough with its unconventional eccentric ring layout, a beautiful sunburst effect emanates from the centre of the tourbillon window at 5 o’clock. It’s not something we often see, and looks stunning in either the navy blue of the platinum model or slate grey of the rose gold. Luminescent Roman numerals embellish the outer ring of the dial, along with a subtle chapter ring which follows the profile of the tourbillon aperture. This window cleverly doubles as a small seconds dial, with the tourbillon cage rotating once every 60 seconds. Finishing the dial is a set of luminescent, polished Breguet hands.If you do end up adding either of the Marine Tourbillons to your collection, it would have a hard time staying on your wrist because of that caseback and the marvelously finished Calibre 581 self-winding movement. Power generation is taken care of by an intricately decorated platinum peripheral weight, because naturally, why would you want to hide such a captivating movement with a big, ugly rotor? Consisting of 330 components, each one is beautifully finished, down to the anglage and c?tes de Geneve on the bridge plates, or the compass rope engraving on the barrel. With a silicon carriage and balance spring fitted for durability and longevity, it’s not all about high-quality classical finishing we’ve become accustomed to, there’s some modern watchmaking involved too, making for quite a magnificent sight indeed.Breguet Marine Tourbillon 5577 Pricing & AvailabilityThe Breguet Marine Tourbillon 5577 is currently available from Breguet retailers. Price: A$266,000 (rose gold), A$293,000 (platinum)BrandBreguetModelMarine Tourbillon 5577Case Dimensions42.5mm (D) x 9.35mm (T)Case Material18k rose goldPlatinumWater Resistance100 metresCrystal(s)SapphireDialNavy blueSlate greyLug WidthN/AStrapRubber and alligator leather, case-matching hardwareMovementCalibre 581, in-house, peripheral rotor, silicon escapementPower Reserve80 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, tourbillon seconds, one-minute tourbillonAvailabilityAvailable nowPriceA$266,000 (rose gold)A$293,000 (platinum)
28.10.23