Borna Bosnjak
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In the weeks since Watches & Wonders, I’ve been ruminating on the numerous releases, and have realised that this year has been one of the toughest to pick favourites from. Nevertheless, through sheer determination and perseverance, I’ve managed to come up with five that excited me. Some inclusions are surprising – a modern Rolex being one of them, while others – platinum Cartier, and vintage re-issue Chopard, for example – are less so. Let’s get into it.Rolex Perpetual 1908 with a white dial in yellow goldTo anyone who knows me, and to the even fewer that care, the inclusion of a modern Rolex in any “favourites” list of mine is a big deal, and the Perpetual 1908 seems like it’s going to be a big deal for Rolex as well. The crown phased out the tired Cellini line in favour of a brand new line, which has its sights set on the entry-level offerings from the members of the Holy Trinity and its satellites. Its inspirations are vintage, going back to the very first watch fitted with a rotor, the design itself dating back to Oyster Perpetual models from 1931.My favourite iteration of the 1908 is the white dial in a yellow gold case – coincidentally the most faithful to its vintage origins. 39mm in size and with short lugs, it’s compact on-wrist, though I would certainly opt for a 36mm variant should it become available. The movement is also impressive, and a departure from Rolex’s regular scheduling, though still finished with plenty of machine help.BrandRolexModelPerpetual 1908Reference Number5250852509Case Dimensions39mm (D) x 9.5mm (T)Case Material18k yellow gold or white goldWater Resistance50 metresDialMatte white or blackCrystal(s)Sapphire crystal front and backStrapBlack or brown alligator leatherLug Width20mmMovementCalibre 7140Power Reserve66 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, small secondsAvailabilityNowPriceA$31,100 (yellow gold)A$32,850 (white gold)Grand Seiko SBGY026 Hana-ikadaWhere Rolex took a turn from their usual scheduling, Grand Seiko doubled-down with the Hana-ikada. The cherry blossom-inspired dial is my favourite the brand has ever made, and I’ve been considering splurging on the SBGA413 Shunbun for ages – a watch that another T+T colleague already fell victim to. While the Shunbun sports a chunky 40mm x 12.8mm 62GS case, the Hana-ikada’s 18k rose gold elegance case shrinks to 38.5mm in diameter and 10.2mm in height – a perfect pairing for the rosy dial.On the reverse side, a flat sapphire crystal caseback reveals the manually wound 9R31 calibre – and good heavens is it pretty. Countersunk and blued screws, chatons, and inky blue-filled engravings, it’s a thing of beauty even though most of it is covered up.BrandGrand SeikoModelElegance Spring Drive Hana-ikadaReference NumberSBGY026Case Dimensions38.5mm (D) x 10.2mm (T) x 43.7mm (L2L)Case Material18k rose goldWater Resistance30 metresDialTextured pinkCrystal(s)Double-domed sapphire front, sapphire backStrapCrocodile leather with three-fold claspLug Width19mmMovement9R31 calibre, in-house, Spring Drive, manual windingPower Reserve72 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, secondsAvailabilityLimited to 100 piecesPriceA$37,950US$27,500TAG Heuer Carrera Date 36mm in pinkEven though it only occupies the third spot on this list, the pink Carrera Date 36mm may as well be first, as the A$30k+ price tags of the first two entrants land them squarely in the kidney-for-sale category. With the new Carrera Date, it’s mostly a story of refinements, even though the new dial colours are much bolder than anything the previous Three Hands collection had to offer. What impressed me most is the fit and feel of the watch, and particularly the pink variant. The subtle curvature of the sunray brushing of the dial to create a snailing effect is just lovely, and so is the 36mm Carrera case that was slimmed down to just 10mm.The movement got an upgrade, too – and yes, I hear you say “bUt IT’s jUsT An ETA”. While I’d certainly love to see TAG Heuer invest into their in-house/manufacture movement department owing to their work with Kenissi and AMT, the specs of the 2892, as well as its slimness, are well-suited for this watch, at this price point.BrandTAG HeuerModelCarrera Date 36mmReference NumbersWBN2313.BA0001Case Dimensions36mm (D) x 10mm (T) x 41.6mm (L2L)Case MaterialStainless steelWater Resistance100 metresDialSnailed sunburst pinkCrystal(s)Sapphire front and backStrapStainless steel H-link bracelet with folding claspMovementCalibre 7, ETA 2892 basePower Reserve56 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, seconds, dateAvailabilityNowPriceA$4,600Cartier Prive Tank Normale in platinum with a platinum braceletBack we go to our regularly scheduled unaffordable content. If anything epitomises the apparent TikTok stealth wealth trend that I’m being informed is hot right now, it’s gotta be Cartier’s Prive Tank Normale in platinum with the matching bracelet. Few watches are so damn cool that wearing them would give you just a sliver of what it must feel like to be John Goldberger, as you’ll inevitably have to battle the feeling of your wrist attire screaming trust fund kid. These are all good things, I promise. Shame it’s limited to 100 pieces, though.BrandCartierModelPrive Tank NormaleCase Dimensions25.7mm (D) x 6.85mm (T) x 32.6 (L2L)Case MaterialPlatinumWater Resistance30mDialBrushed silverCrystalSapphire crystalBraceletPlatinum braceletMovementManually wound Calibre 070Power Reserve38 hoursFunctionsHours, minutesAvailability100-piece limited editionPriceUS$53,500Chopard L.U.C 1860 re-issueLast, but not least, it’s the result of Chopard’s long and impressive history, as well as a sign that the L.U.C line might be heading in the right direction. The L.U.C 1860 sports a 36.5mm diameter case that’s wonderfully slim at only 8.2mm, thanks to the 96.40-L micro-rotor movement that powers it. It brings subtle improvements to an award-winning design from the late nineties, cleaning it up via the exclusion of a date window and a more distinct case shape. With many L.U.C releases in the past, there were small things that kept them from being truly great in my eyes, whether that was the size, choice of indices or other tiny thing I can nitpick. The new 1860, however, I find difficult to fault, except for the fact that one is not in my watch box already.BrandChopardModelL.U.C 1860Case Dimensions36.5mm x 8.2mmCase MaterialLucent steelWater Resistance30mCrystal(s)SapphireDialSalmon-toned goldStrapAnthracite calfskinMovementL.U.C 96.40-LPower Reserve65 hoursAvailabilityAvailable nowPriceUS$23,200
01.05.23