Borna Bosnjak
Say what you will about Hublot’s designs, but there are few manufacturers who’ve taken it upon themselves to explore different materials the way they do. Whether they’re time-only pieces in scratch-resistant gold or multi-complication wonders decked out with sapphire bracelets, the brand is fully committed to the “art of fusion” tagline. If you need any more proof, not a single watch on this list has a steel case, which is very much the standard for modern watchmaking. Hublot also didn’t really focus on any one collection in particular, spreading their attention across multiple areas which is reflected in our yearly round-up, featuring Classic Fusions, Big Bangs, Square Bangs, and the Masterpiece line.Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski Full TitaniumConsidering that three of the five watches on the list retail for six figures and up, the Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski could perhaps be considered… sensible? A quick glance at its faceted titanium case, however, and you can quickly dismiss that notion. The muted tones of the lightweight metal aren’t overly blingy, especially with their mostly micro-blasted finish, with just the right amount of highlights for the pushers and bezel screws.Of the two models, it almost feels like a sin?not?picking the full titanium bracelet, as the watch almost feels incomplete without it. Thanks to the Dubois-Depraz module-equipped ETA chrono calibre inside, it’s also reasonably thin at only 12mm, though the only thing that could separate Marcus from his Watches & Wonders 2023 favourite is the 500-piece limited run.BrandHublotModelClassic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski TitaniumReference Number549.NI.1270.NI.ORL23Case Dimensions41mm (D) x 12mm (T)Case MaterialGrade 5 titaniumWater Resistance50 metresCrystal(s)Sapphire front and backDialBlack lacquerStrapGrade 5 titanium bracelet and deployant claspMovementHUB1153, ETA 2892 w/ Dubois-Depraz module, automaticPower Reserve42 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, small seconds, chronographAvailability250 piecesPriceA$27,400, US$18,200Big Bang Unico Golf Sky Blue CarbonIf the Orlinski Chrono was kinda sensible, the Big Bang Golf Sky Blue Carbon is anything but. How does 45mm x 18.2mm of carbon fibre and Texalium sound? Oh, and of course, there’s the skeletonised dial showing off the indicators for hole, shot, and score.This isn’t the only high-end golf watch, though no other golf watch looks quite like this. The layers of high-tech materials showcase an intricate melange of carbon, fibreglass, and aluminium, rendering the entire watch surprisingly lightweight, coming in at under 100 grams despite its size.BrandHublotModelBig Bang Unico Golf Sky Blue CarbonReference Number416.YE.1120.VRCase Dimensions45mm (D) x 18.2mm (T)Case MaterialCarbon fibre, TexaliumWater Resistance100 metresCrystal(s)SapphireDialSkeletonisedStrapBlack/blue rubber and leatherMovementMHUB1580 Unico, in-house, automaticPower Reserve72 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, golf hole, shot, and score indicatorAvailabilityLimited to 100 piecesPriceA$49,000, US$34,300Square Bang Unico SapphireWith all the unique shapes Hublot has experimented with over the years, it surprised me to learn that the Square Bang was actually the brand’s first square watch. Introduced at Watches & Wonders 2022, the Square Bang waited a year to get the full sapphire case treatment, including the case and dial.Housing a flyback chronograph movement, the sapphire case construction allows Hublot to show off as much of the industrially decorated calibre as possible, with my favourite being the dialside column wheel. Just be wary of the strange feeling of being able to look at your wrist while wearing a watch.BrandHublotModelSquare Bang Unico SapphireReference Number821.JX.0120.RTCase Dimensions42mm (D) x 12mm (T)Case MaterialPolished sapphire crystalWater Resistance50 metresCrystal(s)Sapphire with AR coating front and backDialSapphireLug WidthIntegratedStrapStructured rubber with one-click system, titanium deployant claspMovementMHUB1280 Unico 2, in-house automatic flyback chronographPower Reserve72 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronographAvailabilityNowPriceA$143,000, US$95,000MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-axis RetrogradeWatches from the Hublot MP collection are the most technologically advanced pieces the brand offers – just think back to the ridiculous MP-05 LaFerrari and its 50-day?power reserve. The MP-13 is a little more conventional than that, though it doesn’t mean that it skimps on complication nor unique shape.For starters, the sapphire crystal actually flows into a squared-off section at 6 o’clock to allow a better view into the intricacy of the dual axis tourbillon. To top it all off, there’s a dual retrograde time display spanning the top of the dial, meaning the hands never obstruct the tourbillon cage. It’s really one of those watches that don’t look nearly as impressive when static.BrandHublotModelMP-13 Tourbillon Bi-axis RetrogradeReference Number913.NX.1170.RXCase Dimensions44mm (D) x 16.7mm (T)Case MaterialTitaniumWater Resistance30 metresCrystal(s)AR-coated sapphireDialMatte black, skeletonisedStrapBlack rubber, titanium deployant claspMovementHUB6200, in-house, manual windingPower Reserve96 hoursFunctionsRetrograde hours and minutes, dual axis tourbillon, power reserveAvailability50 numbered piecesPriceA$238,000, US$158,000A$238,000Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Blue SapphireAs if a A$200k bi-axis tourbillon wasn’t crazy enough, why don’t we look at something?really nuts. Ever since I first saw Chanel’s J12 X-Ray and its world-first sapphire bracelet, I knew that it was only a matter of time before Hublot presented their own take on it. The brand started with the fully clear Integrated Tourbillon Full Sapphire in 2021, and two years later, we land on its Full Blue sibling.Contrasting against the pastel blue is the monochromatic HUB6035, Hublot’s micro-rotor-equipped tourbillon movement. The oscillating weight and tourbillon cage sit on opposing ends of the case, offering some pleasant symmetry, and their simple finish doesn’t take away from the main attraction. I’ll end this roundup with the way I started it. Say what you want about Hublot, but you can’t deny the cool factor of a blue-tinted, sapphire-cased-and-braceleted, micro-rotor tourbillon.BrandHublotModelBig Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Blue SapphireReference Number455.JL.0120.JLCase Dimensions43mm (D)Case MaterialBlue sapphireWater Resistance30 metresCrystal(s)AR-coated sapphireDialSapphireStrapBlue sapphire crystal, titanium deployant buckleMovementHUB6035, in-house, micro-rotor automaticPower Reserve72 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, tourbillonAvailabilityLimited to 10 piecesPriceA$792,000, US$527,000
29.12.23