Jamie Weiss
Audemars Piguet’s annual Social Club festivities kick off this year with a new AP House and a boatload of new APs.The debut of a new alloy, “Sand Gold”, in the form of a?Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Openworked is particularly notable.The other headline release is a limited edition Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar produced in collaboration with John Mayer.We’re starting to head into the watch industry’s silly season. Watches & Wonders is only a few weeks away, Omega has already made a splash with a white lacquer dial Speedy, and now we’ve got 2024’s edition of the Audemars Piguet Social Club. AP has kicked off this year’s festivities by unveiling the new AP House Milano, which Andrew was on the ground for. However, more exciting than a new AP House is the bevy of new APs we’ve been blessed with. Let’s dive in.Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked / 41mm ‘Sand Gold’AP is a brand that’s no stranger to pushing boundaries when it comes to materials, especially gold: its hammered frosted gold cases and bracelets immediately spring to mind. However, AP has now debuted a new gold alloy that’s quite unlike any other gold alloy on the market, which it’s calling “sand gold”.Somewhere between white and rose gold, AP’s sand gold is an 18-carat gold alloy with high levels of copper and palladium, which features a warm, dusty look. I’d be very keen to see it in the flesh, as from renders at least, it looks quite unique. With sand gold, Audemars Piguet is reviving the creative approach to gold alloys and colours that prevailed for thousands of years until the 1960s, Sebastian Vivas, AP’s Heritage and Museum Director explains.AP has debuted this new gold alloy with the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked, one of the more complicated takes on the brand’s iconic integrated luxury sports watch. Powered by the Calibre 2972, which was first released in 2022 for the Royal Oak's 50th anniversary, its openworked structure is predominantly crafted from sand gold-plated brass and features a sand gold-toned rehaut. The automatic rotor is conventional rose gold, albeit rhodium-toned.BrandAudemars PiguetModelRoyal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked / 41mmReference26735SG.OO.1320SG.01Case Dimensions41mm (D) x 10.6mm (T)Case Material18k sand gold caseWater Resistance50mCrystalSapphire crystal and exhibition casebackDial18k sand-gold-toned inner bezel, openworkedStrap18k sand gold bracelet w/ AP folding claspMovementIn-house automatic calibre 2972Power Reserve65 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, flying tourbillonAvailabilityAvailable for inquiries nowPricePOACode 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding / 38mm / 41mmFive years on from its launch, the Code 11.59 is no longer the red-headed stepchild of the AP family. Indeed, I think the Code 11.59 is truly underrated: the trick design of its lugs is pretty special, and I love how its sandwiched case design subtly pays homage to the faceted look of the Royal Oak while being something completely fresh.The big news for 2024 is that we’re seeing a bunch more rose gold references join the collection, across both 38 and 41 mm diameters. In a way, this brings the Code 11.59 back to its roots: it launched in precious metals. All of these references feature the more contemporary concentric ring-motif stamped guilloche pattern that was introduced on stainless steel three-hander references in 2023.BrandAudemars PiguetModelCode 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding / 38mm (77410OR.OO.A344CR.01 / 77410OR.OO.A342CR.01)Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding / 41mm (15210OR.OO.A348KB.01 / 15210OR.OO.A056KB.01)Case Dimensions38mm (D) x 9.6mm (T)41mm (D) x 10.7mm (T)Case Material18k rose gold (all references)Water Resistance30mDialLight blue dial w/ stamped motif (77410OR.OO.A344CR.01)Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 (77410OR.OO.A342CR.01)Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 (15210OR.OO.A348KB.01)Green dial w/ stamped motif (15210OR.OO.A056KB.01)CrystalDouble curved glareproofed sapphire crystal and exhibition casebackStrapDial-matching textured textile or alligator strap w/ 18k rose gold AP pin buckleMovement38mm: Automatic AP calibre 590041mm: In-house automatic calibre 4302Power Reserve38mm: 60 hours41mm: 70 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, seconds, dateAvailabilityAvailable for inquiriesPricePOACode 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph / 41mmSimilarly, the Code 11.59 Chronograph has also received three new rose gold models with the same aforementioned concentric dial pattern: a black-dialled, a green-dialled, and a third in the Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 colour introduced on the first Royal Oak ref. 5402. One subtle difference between the three is that the black model features a black ceramic mid-case, while the other two feature rose gold mid-cases.Under the hood of these three beats the Calibre 4401, an in-house flyback chronograph movement with a column wheel, vertical clutch system, 70-hour power reserve and a 4 Hz beat rate. Despite the Code 11.59 Chronograph’s beefy appearance, it’s only 12.6 mm thick – not exactly svelte, but less chunky than one might imagine.BrandAudemars PiguetModelCode 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph / 41mmCase Dimensions41mm (D) x 12.6mm (T)Case Material18k rose gold (26393OR.OO.A348KB.01)18k rose gold (26393OR.OO.A056KB.01)18k rose gold w/ black ceramic midcase (26393NR.OO.A002KB.02)Water Resistance30mDialBleu Nuit, Nuage 50 (26393OR.OO.A348KB.01)Green dial w/ stamped motif (26393OR.OO.A056KB.01)Black dial w/ stamped motif (26393NR.OO.A002KB.02)CrystalDouble curved glareproofed sapphire crystal and exhibition casebackStrapDial-matching textile strap w/ 18k rose gold AP pin buckleMovementIn-house automatic calibre 4401Power Reserve70 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, small seconds, date, flyback chronographAvailabilityAvailable for inquiriesPricePOAAudemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding / 37mmA pair of blingy Royal Oak 37 mm models have also joined the range, both of which feature paved bezels and case ends paired with alligator leather straps. One is white gold with diamonds paired with a green dial and strap, while the other is yellow gold with diamond-paved case ends, a graded sapphire-paved bezel and a light blue dial / strap combination.BrandAudemars PiguetModelRoyal Oak Selfwinding / 37mmCase Dimensions37mm (D) x 9mm (T)Case Material18k rose gold case, bezel, and studs set with diamonds and blue sapphires (15551OR.ZS.D344CR.01)18k white gold case, bezel, and studs set with diamonds (15551BC.ZZ.D405CR.01)Water Resistance50mDialLight blue dial w/ Grande Tapisserie motif (15551OR.ZS.D344CR.01)Light green dial w/ Grande Tapisserie motif (15551BC.ZZ.D405CR.01)CrystalDouble curved glareproofed sapphire crystal and exhibition casebackStrapDial-matching alligator strap w. large square scales and AP folding clasp set w/ 42 brilliant-cut diamondsMovementAutomatic AP calibre 5900Power Reserve60 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, seconds, dateAvailabilityAvailable for inquiriesPricePOAAudemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin (RD#3) / 37mmAudemars Piguet’s RD line represents some of the Le Brassus brand’s more envelope-pushing efforts, and the RD#3 is no exception. First introduced in 2022 to celebrate the Royal Oak’s 50th birthday, it came in two case diameters: a 39 mm ‘Jumbo’ variant with a “Bleu Nuit” dial, and a smaller 37 mm variant with a purple dial. This new 37 mm RD#3 has a bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds, as well as a tasty new smoked dark blue Petit Tapisserie dial.Its remarkable Calibre 2968 measures up at a mere 3.4 mm in thickness, yet it manages a 50-hour power reserve, despite that power-thirsty tourbillon. The tourbillon cage features a novel peripheral drive, which reduces its thickness and enables it to fit in this watch’s thin 8.1 mm case.BrandAudemars PiguetModelRoyal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin (RD#3) / 37mmReference26660BC.ZZ.1356BC.01Case Dimensions37mm (D) x 8.1mm (T)Case Material18k white gold case, bezel set with 32 baguette-cut diamonds (2 carats)Water Resistance50mCrystalSapphire crystal and exhibition casebackDialSmoked blue dial with Petite Tapisserie pattern, 12 baguette-cut diamond hour-markers (0.2 carats)Strap18k white gold bracelet w/ AP folding claspMovementIn-house automatic calibre 2968Power Reserve50 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, flying tourbillonAvailabilityAvailable for inquiries nowPricePOAAudemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph / 41mmA sumptuous take on the Royal Oak Chronograph, this new model combines an 18k yellow gold case with a smoked yellow gold-toned Grande Tapisserie dial. It actually reminds me of a triple sunburst Gibson Les Paul – and it’s an appropriately rock-n’-roll watch. Like the Code 11.59 Chronographs mentioned earlier, it too is powered by the Calibre 4401.BrandAudemars PiguetModelRoyal Oak Selfwindiing Chronograph / 41mmReference26240BA.OO.1320BA.02Case Dimensions41mm (D) x 12.4mm (T)Case Material18k yellow goldWater Resistance50m (screw-down crown)CrystalSapphire crystal and exhibition casebackDialSmoked yellow gold-toned dial with Grande Tapisserie patternStrap18k yellow gold bracelet w/ AP folding claspMovementIn-house automatic calibre 4401Power Reserve70 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, small seconds, date, flyback chronograph.AvailabilityAvailable for inquiries nowPricePOAAudemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon / 41mmAP’s signature Tapisserie hobnail dial pattern is uncontroversially lovely, but sometimes it’s nice to see a Royal Oak do something different as far as dials are concerned. That’s exactly what this pair of 41 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon models do, both eschewing Petit Tapisserie dials in favour of more distinct looks.First of all, we’ve got a stainless steel model with a smoked burgundy sunburst dial, which features a translucent tinted lacquer topcoat – giving it a luscious appearance. Secondly, we’ve got a rose gold model with a two-tone dial: a grey sandblasted inner with an azuraged ivory rim. Subtle, but classy.BrandAudemars PiguetModelRoyal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon / 41mmCase Dimensions41mm (D) x 10.6mm (T)Case MaterialStainless steel (26730ST.OO.1320ST.05)18k rose gold (26730OR.OO.1320OR.03)Water Resistance50m (screww-down crown)DialSmoked burgundy sunburst dial? (26730ST.OO.1320ST.05)Sandblasted grey dial w/ ivory minute scale? (26730OR.OO.1320OR.03)CrystalSapphire crystal and exhibition casebackStrapStainless steel? bracelet w/ AP folding clasp? (26730ST.OO.1320ST.05)18k rose gold bracelet w/ AP folding clasp (26730OR.OO.1320OR.03)MovementIn-house automatic calibre? 2950Power Reserve65 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, flying tourbillonAvailabilityAvailable for inquiriesPricePOAAudemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding / 34mmTwo automatic 34 mm Royal Oaks have also joined the range. The first is a rose gold model with a new vivid pink dial, which complements its case material nicely; and the second being a two-tone steel and rose gold model with a grey dial. I was initially very excited when I saw the latter as I thought it might be two-tone tantalum and rose gold, bringing back a metal combination AP played with in the 80s – but nope, it’s steel.BrandAudemars PiguetModelAudemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding / 34mmCase Dimensions34mm (D) x 8.8mm (T)Case Material18k rose gold (77450OR.OO.1361OR.01)Stainless steel & 18k rose gold (77450SR.OO.1361SR.03)Water Resistance50mDialPink dial w/ Grande Tapisserie pattern? (77450OR.OO.1361OR.01)Grey? dial w/ Grande Tapisserie pattern? (77450SR.OO.1361SR.03)CrystalSapphire crystal and exhibition casebackStrap18k rose gold bracelet w/ AP folding clasp (77450OR.OO.1361OR.01)Stainless steel bracelet, 18-carat rose gold studs, stainless steel AP folding clasp w/ AP plate in rose gold (77450SR.OO.1361SR.03)MovementAutomatic AP calibre 5800Power Reserve50 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, seconds, dateAvailabilityAvailable for inquiriesPricePOAAudemars Piguet Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding / 37mmI mentioned hammered gold earlier in this article: well, another one of 2024’s AP Social Club releases is indeed a frost yellow gold 37 mm RO, paired with a smoked gold sunburst dial. The only other frosted yellow gold RO models in the range currently are the garish rainbow gemset Double Balance Wheel Openworked models: this reference is more sedate and I daresay more wearable.BrandAudemars PiguetModelRoyal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding / 37mmReference15550BA.GG.1356BA.01Case Dimensions37mm (D) x 9.1mm (T)Case Material18k ‘frosted’ yellow goldWater Resistance50mCrystalSapphire crystal and exhibition casebackDialSmoked yellow gold-toned dial with sunburst patternStrapHammered 18k yellow gold bracelet w/ AP folding claspMovementAutomatic AP calibre 5900Power Reserve60 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, seconds, dateAvailabilityAvailable for inquiries nowPricePOAAudemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding / 43mm2024 marks the return of the rubber bezel to the Royal Oak Offshore – a much-maligned design feature that I’m actually quite a big fan of. This steel 43 mm model features a smoked blue Mega Tapisserie dial with a matching blue rubber strap and bezel. The lack of complications makes this Offshore somewhat understated… As understated as an Offshore can be, I suppose.This new model is one of only a handful of contemporary Royal Oak Offshores that isn’t a chronograph. It’s not even a ROO Diver. It’s ‘just’ an Offshore. Instead, it’s powered by the Calibre 4302, which features a blackened rose gold rotor and a 70-hour power reserve.BrandAudemars PiguetModelRoyal Oak Offshore Selfwinding / 43mmReference15605SK.OO.A350CA.01Case Dimensions43mm (D) x 14.4mm (T)Case MaterialStainless steel case, blue rubber-coated bezelWater Resistance100m (screw-down crown)CrystalSapphire crystal and exhibition casebackDialSmoked blue dial w/ new generation Mega Tapisserie patternStrapInterchangeable blue rubber strap and stainless steel AP pin buckle. Additional interchangeable black rubber strap.MovementIn-house automatic calibre 4302Power Reserve70 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, seconds, dateAvailabilityAvailable for inquiries nowPricePOAAudemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin Openworked / 39mmAlso new in 2024: a white gold Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin Openworked joins the range alongside the preexisting rose gold model that was introduced in 2022. In the world of complicated Royal Oaks, the Jumbo Extra-Thin Openworked stands out as a particularly dapper edition. With 247 inner angles and a prominently displayed filleted barrel at 11 o’clock, the Calibre 7124 in this bad boy is a work of art.BrandAudemars PiguetModelRoyal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin Openworked / 39mmReference16204BC.00.1240BC.01Case Dimensions39mm (D) x 8.1mm (T)Case Material18k white gold caseWater Resistance50mCrystalSapphire crystal and exhibition casebackDialAnthracite openworked movementStrap18k white gold bracelet w/ AP folding claspMovementIn-house automatic calibre 7124Power Reserve57 hoursFunctionsHours, minutesAvailabilityAvailable for inquiries nowPricePOAAudemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in collaboration with John MayerLast but certainly not least, we have a Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar produced in collaboration with Grammy-winning singer-songwriter and noted watch enthusiast John Mayer, one of the most prominent celebrity watch collectors on the planet. It features a unique electroformed blue crystal dial that’s quite unlike anything we’ve seen AP attempt before – head to Russell’s dedicated write-up here for a full introduction.BrandAudemars PiguetModelRoyal Oak John Mayer” Perpetual Calendar / 41mmReference26574BC.OO.1220BC.02Case Dimensions41mm (D) x 9.5mm (T)Case Material18k white gold caseWater Resistance20mCrystalSapphire crystal and exhibition casebackDialBlue “Crystal Sky”Strap18k white gold bracelet w/ AP folding claspMovementIn-house automatic calibre 5134Power Reserve40 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, perpetual calendar, moon phaseAvailabilityLimited to 200 piecesPriceCHF 150,000
08.03.24