Jamie Weiss
AP taps pop artist and designer Kaws for an elevated and subversive take on a character watch.Kaws’ signature Companion character takes over the Royal Oak Concept’s dial, framed by peripheral hands and a tourbillon at 6 o’clock, facilitated by the new Calibre 2979.A limited edition of 250 pieces, Kaws motifs can be found throughout, such as the artist’s crosses adorning the Royal Oak’s iconic bezel screws.Audemars Piguet has embraced hypebeast culture more than just about any high-end watchmaker. Thanks in no small part to the nous of former CEO Fran?ois-Henry Bennahmias, AP has long since been embedded in hip-hop – stars like Jay-Z shout out the brand in their lyrics, and AP has even penned a signature model with Travis Scott, for instance – and hip-hop continues to inform streetwear, modern art, modern luxury and therefore watch culture. Kaws sits at the confluence of all this. Starting out as a graffiti artist in NYC in the ’90s, Kaws now ranks as one of the world’s most successful pop artists and designers, with his distinctive aesthetic and range of characters known across the globe. Kaws figurines are coveted like Supreme sweaters, Nike Air Jordans or yes, Audemars Piguet Royal Oaks – which is why the news that AP has tapped Kaws for a collab isn’t completely unprecedented.Brian Donnelly, a.k.a. KAWS.What might be surprising is just how luxurious this collaborative model is. Taking the form of a Royal Oak Concept, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon Companion 43mm ref. 26656TI.GG.D019VE.01 debuts a new in-house calibre for the Holy Trinity brand, and follows in the footsteps of other Royal Oak Concept character watches such as the Black Panther and Spider-Man collaborations with Marvel Comics. Compared to those two controversial pieces, this Kaws collab is a somewhat more subtle affair… Well, as subtle as a Royal Oak Concept character watch can be.In a nod to Kaws’ formative “ad intervention” work from the ’90s, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon Companion – as the name implies – has the artist’s signature Companion character take over the watch’s dial, appearing as if it’s smooshed against the crystal, or peering out for a look. A skeletal, clown-like figure inspired by ’30s rubber hose animation, Companion is Kaws’ most enduring design, manifesting in figures, statues and sketches, and is often depicted in vulnerable or shy poses; a sad clown – this Christie’s article is a great explainer. There’s a knowing whimsy in the way this cartoony figure is trapped beneath the dial of this expensive watch – it’s literally the trappings of wealth! It’s also entirely fitting with Kaws’ subversive style. On a technical level, it’s entirely made from titanium, as is the watch’s case and much of its movement.The gear wheels of the Calibre 2979’s hand mechanism, driven by pinions and guided by rollers, are visible at the dial’s periphery.To provide an unobstructed view of the Companion, the ref. 26656TI.GG.D019VE.01 debuts a new hand-wound movement, the Calibre 2979, which features peripheral hour and minute hands. Filled with blue lume, the solid triangle denotes hours and the hollow triangle, minutes. The tourbillon at 6 o’clock also looks like it’s the Companion’s heart, further playing into its themes of life and death. The bridges of the movement even feature a padded design inspired by Kaws’ cast of cartoony characters, and a ratchet wheel with yet another Kaws cross design. The lengths to which AP has gone to realise this collaboration are impressive. As a side note, the architecture of the movement to my eye resembles those found in some Richard Mille watches – of course, Audemars Piguet Renaud et Papi manufactures many of RM’s high-end movements, so this doesn’t seem outside of the realms of possibility.Other features of note: Kaws’ cross design finds its way onto the bezel screws of the Royal Oak Concept, as well as the caseback ring of this watch, where Kaws’ signature can also be found. The strap, while appearing to be made from a nylon textile, is actually leather: the watch ships with two versions of this strap, a light grey and a slate grey. While you’re unlikely to ever go swimming with a watch like this, it’s actually water-resistant to 100 metres, which I found a bit surprising. The crown’s not screw-down, but it is rimmed with black ceramic.Without being too reductive, this Kaws collab seems laser-targeted at the sort of hip-hop clientele who themselves are cultural tastemakers – or at least, their most well-heeled fans. Indeed, Kaws has collaborated with hip-hop artists like Kid Cudi and Pharrell Williams before. This watch might seem confusing to someone who finds the idea of camping out for a pair of sneakers ridiculous, but for dyed-in-the-wool hypebeasts, this AP intuitively makes sense – even if very few of them are in a tax bracket where they can afford a Royal Oak Concept.Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion” 43mm pricing and availabilityThe Audemars Piguet x Kaws Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion” 43mm is a limited edition of 250 pieces. Price: CHF 200,000 (AUD and USD pricing yet to be released).BrandAudemars PiguetModelRoyal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion” 43mmReference26656TI.GG.D019VE.01Case Dimensions43mm (D) x 17.4mm (T)Case MaterialTitaniumWater Resistance100 metresCrystal(s)Sapphire front and backDialSunburst titanium, Kaws Companion miniatureLug WidthIntegratedBracelet and strapLight grey calfskin, textile effect, titanium triple-blade folding claspMovementCalibre 2979, in-house, manual-windingPower Reserve72 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, tourbillonAvailability250 piecesPriceCHF 200,000
20.11.24